Pizza Hut Eau de Pizza Hut




Just how much do Pizza Hut's devotees love the smell of a freshly-opened box of pizza? Enough for Pizza Hut Canada to commission a fragrance so disconcertingly weird that it crosses the bridge from kitschy merch to conceptual art. And I didn't even know there was a bridge at that location!

Elie Saab Le Parfum




For the longest time, Elie Saab Le Parfum was invisible to me in the ever-burgeoning clutter of self-named designer perfumes. I have my YouTube fumies to thank for the discovery of this kitten-in-springtime delight. After repeated requests to review it, I dutifully trudged to Elie Saab's spot at the perfume counter, and wearily took a sniff.

Blah turned to "ah!" as the parade float of orange blossom, jasmine and honey sailed past my nose. Francis Kurkdjian is the fellow behind Le Parfum, and it shares a kinship with his Narciso Rodriquez For Her. It's brighter, less musky, more floral than For Her, but they both croon with the same velvet tone.

Le Parfum possesses a real lilt, with a lot of space in the smell for happy little birds, bees and gamboling Bambis.

Le Parfum is available from Amazon.com and FragranceX.com.

Cacharel Loulou


I missed Loulou by Cacharel the first time around. When it came out in 1987, I was a Clarins Eau Dynamisante girl. (I can't sniff Eau Dynamisante without remembering where I was the first time I smelled it: dancing onstage with the Michael Clark Company at the Sadler's Wells Theatre in London.)

Perfume Pen Pals: Byredo M/Mink and Steidl Paper Passion



Dan,

Finally I'm wearing Paper Passion. I prised the bottle out of the red pages of its book box and dabbed some on my wrist. I'd never read any of the patter about what was supposed to be in it, so I had no expectations.

Perfume Pen Pals: Steidl Paper Passion



Katie,

I just bought Paper Passion by Steidl. [Pause for sigh, head shaking.]


If Chandler Burr separated this perfume from its context, I wonder if it would still exist?

Dan

Jean Paul Gaultier Fleur du Male


Fleur du Mâle by Jean Paul Gaultier is my favorite honey perfume these days. It's the sharp, intimate smell of decaying orange blossoms: beautifully oppressive, with something of the personal humidity of YLS Kouros about it. Like Kouros, the honey is perspiring and it seeks to restore decorum with a sprinkling of powder.

Annick Goutal Musc Nomade





Musc Nomade is one of Annick Goutal's "Les Orientalistes" fab four, along with Ambre Fétiche, Myrrhe Ardente and Encens Flamboyante.

Musc Nomade is one of my two very favorite musk perfumes (Bruno Acampora Musc is the other) and Isabelle Doyen, who created it, tells me that it's her personal favorite of the Goutal line.

Musc Nomade is a floral whisper of stone-washed musk, amber and patchouli. It's faded and lived-in with a wheaty, bittersweet hint of autumnal vegetation crunched underfoot. It's an “amplified you” scent that smells beautifully nude.

Fumes in the News: Who is Scentbitch?



Every fumehead is familiar with the wash of ennui that hardens like the glaze of a day-old doughnut across the faces of civilians bored by your perfume natterings. No, normal people emphatically do not care that Chanel No. 5 is about to be reformulated beyond all recognition, that Ormonde Jayne is about to launch a new collection, that the whisky accord is the new oud.

Tom Ford Noir



Noir by Tom Ford is a friendly barber shop amber. Nothing to get mad about here. Noir is a right little Mr. Congeniality.
Noir is available from Sephora.com and TomFord.com starting at $90 for 1.7 oz
Looking for a fragrance recommendation? Visit Fume Finder: the Katie Puckrik Smells fragrance app.

Fall Fragrance Picks for Women: Miller Harris La Pluie and Ormonde Jayne Tolu



Ladeeeez! Here's what I've been wearing and loving in the chillier fall weather. Think of it as a capsule collection of perfume: one for day and one for night...

Viewer Mail: Nobody Puts Naima in the Corner








Hey there, Katie,

I have a huge problem with fragrance. Maybe I shouldn't be a 22-year-old black woman in Chicago. I'm surrounded by flat celebrity fragrances. People in department stores take one little look at me and say: "Oh, you're tall and curvy, I know the perfect scent..." and then precede to spray a Baby Phat perfume on my wrist.

Imagine their faces when I walk over to the Chanel counter and ask for a sample of Coco Mademoiselle. You'd think someone tortured their favorite puppy. Well, I'm the one being tortured. I'm surrounded by ladies my age who are dripping in alcohol fruity sugar water that smells as flat as soda would taste after being shaken. They wear it because it has someone's freaking name on it.

Joyful Jasmines: Serge Lutens A la Nuit, Nasomatto Nuda, and Rodin Olio Lusso




Jasmine is the violin of perfume materials.  Played badly, it can be shrill, spiky and annoying.  In the right hands and the right context, the smell of jasmine is lilting and insinuating, able to conjure sunshine and throbbing sensuality. Its volatile timbre is part of the flower's factory settings, which in nature puff out a siren call that ranges from bubblegum, to fruit, to spice, to skin, to decay.  Where you fall on the insect-to-mammal spectrum will determine which olfactory tone qualifies as a “siren call”.

SNL Brad Pitt for Chanel No. 5 Spoof

Taran Killam as Brad Pitt.

It's still too early for data from Chanel regarding the sales impact of Brad Pitt's commercial for Chanel No. 5. But one thing's for sure: it has been a gold mine for parodists.

Last night's episode of Saturday Night Live featured Taran Killam as a put-upon Mr. Pitt struggling to deliver the goods.

Click here to watch the clip.


We laugh because we love. To laugh.

New Improved Brad Pitt Chanel No. 5 Ad



After stinging criticism of the Brad Pitt commercial for Chanel No. 5, certain...errm...tweaks have been made.

Fall Fragrance Picks for Men: Hilde Soliani Bell'Antonio and Frederic Malle Geranium pour Monsieur


Hey fellas.  I've been thinking about what smells good wafting off a guy as the days get darker and the air gets chillier.  Here's my idea of the perfect autumnal capsule scent wardrobe: one for day and one for night...
 So many tobacco perfumes are aswirl with vanilla and Christmas spices and hoohah.  Not Bell'Antonio.  Its dry tobacco and coffee are cozy, but not cloying.  And it's low key enough to wear in a work environment without smelling like you're the coffee cart at break time.
My friend, the artist Gary Hume, wears Géranium pour Monsieur to great effect.  This Dominique Ropion creation is a crisp, minty rose that softens and deepens alluringly to sandalwood and musk, resulting in skin that begs to be caressed. Men (and those who smell them) -- what are your Oktoberfumefest favorites?

Brad Pitt Sells Us Some Chanel No. 5


As I discussed back in May, Brad Pitt has a bottle of Chanel No. 5 he'd like you to buy. The latest face of the iconic perfume is directed here by Atonement and Anna Karenina director Joe Wright. The elliptical script is provided by Glenn O'Brien, a veteran fashion and pop culture writer.

Lady Gaga Fame


Lady Gaga Fame is finally here, after a year of being touted as all manner of subversive craziness: the smell of semen with a dash of Gaga's blood; the elixir of poison flowers; juice the color of the blackest heart.

Fragrance Bros Interview Katie Puckrik



YouTube's Fragrance Bros are fumetubers Dave and Jer, two frolicsome gents with a penchant for high-fiving, knuckle-bumping, and general fragrance-oriented malarky. Their bodacious bonhomie marks them out as the Wayne's World of perfume reviewers, and it's hard not to get caught up in their giggly enthusiasm, even if it's just over the umpteenth A*Men flanker. A few months ago, I had the honor of being the focus of their enthusiasm in this tribute video...

Marc Jacobs Dot


Dot -- another cute bottle from Marc Jacobs fragrances!
Marc's "Dot look": giving "Blue Steel" a run for its money.
Dot is available from Sephora.com starting at $48 for 1 oz

Perfume Pen Pals: Parfums MDCI Chypre Palatin




Katie,

I love almost everything from Parfums MDCI and if I had a million dollars in my pocket, I'd buy the entire line. (And bigger pockets.) Though I still wouldn't splurge on the bottles with the marble heads. I wonder how much money you'd need before believing $125 for a little marble head is a good idea?

Chanel Coco Noir


My video review for Chanel Coco Noir basically amounts to five minutes of me saying "meh". At the time of recording it, I imagined I was offering a vaguely edifying analysis of noir-yness in the context of Chanel. But watching it back now, it's the equivalent of one big tragically-heaved sigh. I blame Coco Noir.
Coco Noir is available from Amazon.com and Chanel.com starting at $98 for 1.7 oz

Fumes in the News: Kate and Wills' Polynesian Perfume Choice

"That had better not clash with my Geranium pour Monsieur, lady!"

The Duke and Duchess of Cambridge brought their toothy grins, careful grooming and game-for-anything graciousness to the recent revelries in the tiny South Pacific nation of Tuvalu. But did they pack the right perfume? As one of the perks of being long-distance members of the Tuvalu royal family, William and Kate were invited to partake in the tradition of spraying fragrance on the grass-skirted hula dancers gathered at the celebration.

Fumes in the News: Juliette Binoche's Perfume of Death



French actress Juliette Binoche wears specific perfumes to get into character for her roles, she tells Hermione Eyre in ES Magazine (14 Sept 2012). The thinking man's croissant and star of Chocolat and The English Patient will be playing Mademoiselle Julie in an updated version of the Strindberg classic at the Barbican next week -- and she has Miss J's fragrance all picked out: the essence of myrrh. Here's more on myrrh from Juliette:

Creed Original Vetiver


There are certain men's fragrances that I classify as "goof proof": easy-going, accessible scents that don't require an elaborate context or personal manifesto every time you spray some on. They enhance day or night, work or play, and they quietly go about their business of making you smell good, subtlely.

Perfume Pen Pals: D.S. and Durga Burning Barbershop



Katie,

I grew up across the street from a cranky old woman named Mable. My memory of her kinky dyed black hair and perpetual scowl brings to mind Gene Simmons, and vice versa, so when I see Gene on TV, I can almost imagine growing up across the street from him.

L'Artisan Parfumeur Seville a l'Aube



For fume blogger and The Perfume Lover author Denyse Beaulieu, the smell of orange blossom absolute sampled in perfumer Bertrand Duchaufour's lab was an "ah-HA!" moment. The sweet but sexually insinuating orange blossom was the quarter in the jukebox, the olfactory nudge that triggered Beaulieu's full-blown recollection of a long-ago night in the arms of her Spanish boyfriend. As she detailed the sights, sounds and smells of that night in Seville during the Holy Week parade, Duchaufour had his own "ah-HA!" moment. Beaulieu's story became the germ of the idea for Séville à l'Aube, springing like a genie from a nondescript bottle of solvent-extracted oil. 130-odd modifications later (detailed in full fume-nerd technicolor in The Perfume Lover), this interpretation of sultry/sacred Seville is the latest release from L'Artisan Parfumeur. Séville à l'Aube takes its place in the "innocent with a dirty mind" category of orange blossom fragrances: Jean Paul Gaultier Fleur du Mâle, Guerlain Habit Rouge, Serge Lutens Fleur d'Oranger. I would say Séville à l'Aube is drier, less muggy than those louche numbers, owing to the subtly restraining hand of incense. The church reminds these lovers not to get too carried away -- after all, after the dawn comes a bright new day, with no shadows where reckless lust can thrive.
Séville à l'Aube is available from LuckyScent.com at $165 for 100 ml

Fumes in the News: Serpentine Gallery Pavilion 2012


Yesterday was the annual Notting Hill Carnival in London, which is why I was in Kensington Gardens to visit this year's Serpentine Gallery Pavilion. Yes yes, I was missing thousands of elaborately spangled and befeathered celebrants shaking and bopping and pogoing to hundreds of steel bands, sustained by Red Stripe and Caribbean cooking and Mother Nature's finest. But I know from previous carnival experiences that five-foot-nothing me would end up sandwiched between boppers and pogoers, unable to see anything or to exercise free will as regards my ambulatory direction. And that gets old fast.

Divine Parfum



Divine eau de parfum was one of the first indie perfumes I wore when I was discovering niche in the late nineties. In fact, it was created by Richard Ibanez and Yann Vasnier in 1986, which might explain why it harkens back to the adult perfumes of the seventies. Divine smells of tuberose and peach and incense, and reminds me of the original Chloé, although my exalted memory of Chloé is jaded by smelling the version available now. Or maybe it's my nose that's jaded.

Madonna Truth or Dare


Madonna's debut perfume, Truth or Dare, is a flirty, feminine concoction of white florals and caramelized vanilla -- a tribute, the star says, to her mother's love of gardenia and tuberose. With celebrity fragrances now a standard cash-in for movie stars and reality show wannabes alike, fans may wonder what took the business-savvy pop icon so long to jump on the signature scent bandwagon.

Perfume Pen Pals: Diptyque L'Eau Trois



Katie,

Reading your review of Guerlain Myrrhe et Délires, I noticed you again mentioned your affection for L'Eau Trois. And so I looked it up on MakeupAlley and saw that it was the lowest-rated Diptyque (1.8!), with some reviewers saying it smelled of body odor and others comparing it to a dirty bathroom. This is the most interested I've ever been in a Diptyque!

Viewer Mail: What's a Good Fragrance for a Dentist?








Hello Katie!

I'm starting my clinical practice as a dentist in Europe. I'm looking for a fragrance that respects the space between me and the patient. However, I want the fragrance to be classy and appropriate to a man in his middle twenties. I'll keep Dior Homme Intense to wear when I go out with friends :) What do you suggest?

Rui

Le Labo Iris 39



Le Labo Iris 39 opens on a backwards echo of bread and violets. By the time you've gone “Huh! What is that...bread?”, Iris 39 has already established a course on the open road through a landscape of sweet woods and clean wet dirt. Created by Frank Voelkl, this eau de parfum possesses a vegetal sharpness which might be due to the ginger and lime accords contained within.

Dita Von Teese


Of all the famous faces stampeding over each other to cash in on their 15 minutes with a perfume, Dita Von Teese is the one I'd most want to smell like. I mean, look at her! She's beautiful, cultured, theatrical, and speaks fluent French.

Illamasqua Freak


Does this octopus clash with my perfume?
I'm a fan of Freak by Illamasqua. I really am. It's just that I get a "wha...?" reaction when I hold the darkly goth-decadent bottle in my hand, then smell the clean happy flowers that practically dance out of the spritzer. It's a stylistic disconnect, to be sure. Purple flacon with a snail vs. fresh florals with a kiss -- no matter, the important thing is that it smells good. And Freak does: pretty, sweetly feminine, dew-dappled, with a subtle spine of wood.

Viewer Mail: Help Me Find a Ladylike Smart Cookie Perfume








Hey Katie,

I'm 38 and looking for a new perfume for date nights that somehow makes sense of conflicting streaks in my personality. I was born and raised in Louisiana, but have pretty much gone native in San Francisco.

Meet Perfumer Bertrand Duchaufour and Author Denyse Beaulieu in London

Me? Kvetchy?

Me? Torrid?

Superstar perfumer Bertrand Duchaufour and The Perfume Lover author Denyse Beaulieu will be making an appearance on Wednesday, July 25th at the L'Artisan Parfumeur shop in London's Covent Garden. Duchaufour and Beaulieu will be discussing their collaboration on Séville à l'aube, the incense-kissed orange blossom perfume inspired by a page out of Denyse's torrid past. (Read The Perfume Lover to flesh out the full story of both perfume and torrid past.) The sniff'n'chat sessions will take place in the afternoon at 2:30-3:45, 4:00-5:15, and 5:30-6:45.

I will be interviewing the dynamic duo at the 2:30 session, so join us for insights on the creation process of a beautiful perfume. In her book, Denyse and Bertrand's interaction comes off at times like a that of an old bickering married couple, so I'm interested to see if they're as kvetch-tastic in person. Let's hope they're not on their boring best behavior.

Any questions you'd like me to ask them? Let me know in the comments.


UPDATE: I filmed the interview and will be uploading it to KP Smells soon.

L'Artisan Parfumeur is located at 13 The Market Building, Covent Garden, London WC2E 8RB. Phone 020 3040 3030 to book your spot at one of the sessions.

Viewer Mail: Help Me Find a Bohemian Perfume








Hey, Katie!

I need your help. I need an everyday perfume that suits me. I'm 18 years old and really shy, but I'm also intelligent with an admittedly sharp tongue. I live with my nose in books like Lolita and Alice in Wonderland, and I love indie music, bohemian clothes, nature and everything sultry, whimsical, and nostalgic. I seem to come off as innocent, but I curse like a sailor and have wanderlust like a motherf**ker. I love leather, sunshine, the woods, red lipstick, and vintage clothes.

Shelby

DKNY Woman Summer 2012, Hugo Boss Orange Woman, and Korres Saffron Amber Cardamom



I know. What is this nonsensical grouping of perfumes I am smelling here? It can only mean one thing: I am once again at the HQ of beauty/fashion/pop goss website Beauty & the Dirt, where perfumes come to rest like so many pigeons on a statue. B&TD fearless leader Krista Madden marched me through the olfactory hodgepodge. I couldn't make heads or tails out of Boss Orange Woman (is that for lady Oompa Loompas?). The DKNY Woman Summer 2012? Well, it's hard to get too invested when it's only around for a few months. If DKNY don't think it's worth the long haul, then neither do I. Korres Saffron Amber Cardamom is more my speed. At least it smelled gustatory and real-ish. It was my favorite in the pack, a transparent spiced affair that is warm but not thick.
DKNY Woman Summer 2012 is available from Amazon.com at $70 for 3.3 oz Hugo Boss Orange Woman is available from Beauty Encounter starting at $34 for 1.6 oz Korres Saffron Amber Cardamom is available from Amazon.com at $48 for 3.4 oz
Looking for a fragrance recommendation? Visit Fume Finder: the Katie Puckrik Smells fragrance app.

Christian Dior Oud Ispahan


Today's newest new oud is from Christian Dior's Privée line, harkening back to oldest old Persia with its name: Oud Ispahan. Oud Ispahan was created by François Demachy, who has authored the slew of Privée releases over the past two years. OI works a rosy angle, the initial tip-off coming from the pretty pale pink juice. But nowhere close to being pale is the scent itself, which booms out of the bottle with the blind force of the Titanic broadsiding an iceberg.

Perfume Pen Pals: Ys Uzac



Katie,

As you know, we do a great disservice to art when we judge it not by what it is but by what we want it to be. Putting that aside, I've decided I want my next fragrance to make me feel like Jean-Paul Belmondo in Breathless (minus the murder), something reckless and unrefined, but lately all my samples are delicate, meticulous things, intentionally lacking in boldness.

A Story of Scent - Upcoming Indie Perfume Documentary


A Story of Scent is filmmaker and artist Saskia Wilson-Brown's in-progress documentary about the world of independent perfume, and the people who make it and love it. The teaser clip features interviews with Smell Bent's Brent Leonesio, Scent Bar's Steven Gontarski, and Katie Puckrik Smells'...er...me! Wilson-Brown is in the process of gathering more voices from around the fumisphere, and the finished doc will feature as many independent perfumers as she can cram in. Supplementary Wilson-Brown: Enjoy her delicious and nutritious blog to do with all things art, design and creative people here.

Guerlain Myrrhe & Delires


The smell of myrrh is plangent, melancholic, secretive. My touchstone myrrh perfume is Diptyque L'Eau Trois, which highlights the resin's herby aromatics. But most myrrh fragrances tend to be root beer float-sweet, a frothy sort of licorice milk. I'm thinking of Huitième Art Myrrhiad and Annick Goutal Myrrhe Ardente here. Mellower is the moreish Christian Dior Bois d'Argent, and weirder is Serge Lutens La Myrrhe with its airy aldehydes.

Myrrhe & Delires by Guerlain hoes another row altogether, dispensing with the bubbles and ice cream. Here, secretive myrrh is gently coaxed into sociability with pale licorice and violet offering moral support. A pastel bouquet of peachy rose and jasmine lends the myrrh a sentimental side, and soft-focus vanilla and sueded woods provide a discrete plinth.

This Thierry Wasser creation is wistful and feminine. The orchestration swirling around myrrh's minor chord is delicate and uplifting, the contrast serving to highlight the resin's jolie-laide appeal while also complimenting it. Myrrhe & Delires is subtle subtle subtle -- a tender petal of a perfume.


Photo of Mabel Normand

Oliver & Co. M.O.U.S.S.E



Katie,

My perfume arrived today from Oliver & Co., the one-man artisanal line from Spain with the perfume philosophy "All ingredients must be the best quality and everything must be done by hand." Which, coincidentally, matches my own life philosophy and so how could I resist?

Jo Malone Lime Basil & Mandarin


Lime Basil & Mandarin by Jo Malone is a wonderful co-conspirator for anyone's summer. Not only does it smell bracingly, teeth-zingingly zesty, but the citrus effervescence goes on and nah-non and on and on, beat don't stop until the break-a-dawn. Lime Basil & Mandarin is happy and zappy, bringing cheer to everyone in your orbit. The basil provides a tangy, physical lilt to those bright lime and mandarin balloons, keeping the composition smelling like your personal guff of joy and not like air freshener. Lay on some LB&M and bring the smiles, people!
Lime Basil & Mandarin is available from Beauty Encounter, starting at $20 for 0.3 oz
Looking for a fragrance recommendation? Visit Fume Finder: the Katie Puckrik Smells fragrance app.

Perfume Pen Pals: Chandler Burr's Untitled Series



Dan,

The publicist for shopping site OpenSky contacted me about Chandler Burr's “Untitled Series” project:
“Chandler Burr, the curator of The Department of Olfactory Art at New York's Museum of Arts and Design, the scent editor for GQ magazine and the former scent critic for the New York Times is creating a project on OpenSky that’s never been done before. He’s bringing scent to life online.”
Bringing scent to life online has never been done before? Hello? Is this thing on?

Yankee Candle Man Candles

Phyllis Diller: she loves a stiff wick.

Some of you haute candle lovers may ooh-la-la over Cire Trudons, Frédéric Malles and Diptyques, but I'll bet you their start-up stories can't hold a (ahem) candle to that of good old Yankee Candle. It seems Yankee Candle founder Mike Kittredge was only 16 when he stumbled on the idea for the company after throwing together a last-minute Christmas present for his mother. The idea? Melt down a bunch of old crayons into a candle. Mmmm...crayon-y!

Perfume Pen Pals: Demeter Lobster



Katie,

I'm wearing Demeter Lobster. I was bored with all my perfumes and so I impulsively bought a bunch of crap and this is like what happens when your relationship is stagnant and you pursue a random person in a bar and then feel a hundred times worse about everything. Lobster is as random as it gets and right now I smell like regret.

The Body Shop White Musk for Men


White Musk for Men is my favorite Body Shop fragrance, and I relish its eminent nuzzleability. Nuzzleablity is not always a given for perfumes built around white musks, though, because even though its M.O. is supposedly kitty-tummy softness, this Miss Popularity of the Aromachemical Beauty Pageant can go from a whisper to a scream if overdosed. (As pretty as I find Stella, for instance, its white musk crushes my skull to powder as surely as the vise-like grip of a showgirl's thighs.) White Musk for Men can be filed under “Kitty Tummy” along with Le Labo Labdanum 18, Histoires de Parfums Ambre 114, IUNX No. 9 Eau Blanche, C.O. Bigelow Musk Oil, and the sadly discontinued Narciso Rodriquez Musc Oil for Her. Fumies, what are your top tips for purry white musk pleasure?
White Musk for Men is available from Amazon.com at $22 for 3.3 oz

Perfume Pen Pals: Helmut Lang Eau de Cologne Revisited



Katie,

I'm wearing Helmut Lang Eau de Cologne every single day and I'm close to declaring it my favorite eau de cologne. The problem is I'm mindful of the appeal of the rare (TAOTR), that because this stuff is no longer made and sells for increasingly high prices on eBay, I get excited before I even spray it on. How much does this excitement influence my opinion of Helmut Lang Eau de Cologne? I say not at all, but then I'm not a fair judge. And yet I am a fair judge because I'm mindful, or at least I say I'm mindful, but who really knows the truth? We humans are so good at justifying ourselves, we're sometimes difficult to read. I boast about my mindfulness all the time in therapy, but some days I feel like I'm most mindful of my deceptiveness. Which is a start, I suppose.

Diptyque Tam Dao




Tam Dao by Diptyque is a crowd-pleasing woodsy number. There's nothing tricksy going on, just a long, strong Oprah-yell of wood.

Perfume Pen Pals: Stella Found a Man



Katie,

This, my perfume friend, is my discovery in playing around with Stella McCartney Stella, a perfume that at first pleased me but after my second or third wearing left me feeling somehow empty. Stella is like a good Hugh Grant movie: it's amiable, well-constructed, light on its feet, but it lacks an essential core, an emotional nucleus that would make it truly memorable.

Cartier Baiser Vole


Perfumer Mathilde Laurent is the talent behind some of my especial favorites in the sumptuous sniff department: Guerlain Attrape Coeur and Cartier's Les Heures du Parfum line. Minty men's frag Roadster (2008) marked Laurent's release from Cartier's velvet-lined V.I.P. playpen, where she'd been toiling behind the scenes on bespoke fragrances for clients of the luxury house.

Fumes in the News: Brad Pitt No. 5


Shove off, Catherine Deneuve, Ines de la Fressange and Nicole Kidman, there's a new Chanel No. 5 cover girl in town...well, he's almost as pretty as a girl, anyway. Thespian and throb Brad Pitt has been named the latest face of No. 5, and he's due to shoot the ad this week in London, a convenient commute from the Brangelina clan's new digs in Richmond.

This is the first time in the history of the iconic perfume that a man has been cast to represent the scent in their campaign. For ponderings on this latest way to sprinkle a little more Brad into our lives, read my article in the Guardian here.


Photograph: Frank Baron/ MARK BLINCH/The Guardian/ REUTERS

Chanel Coco


More and more, I'm hearing from young women in their 20s pledging their allegiance to Chanel Coco. I smell Coco as a bridge between the heady Opium/Cinnabar days of the Studio 54 crowd and the "I've-outgrown-my-fruitchuli" kids of today.

Interview with Madonna's Truth or Dare Perfumer Stephen Nilsen

Imperceptibly, the killer gardenia crept up on Stephen Nilsen and Katie Puckrik.

Madonna’s talents as a superstar-singer-songwriter-dancer-actor-director-producer-designer-activist-philanthropist range from phenomenal to meager, depending which side of the hyphen she’s on. Nevertheless, the entertainer has always possessed an iron-clad confidence in her abilities across all areas, marked by an insistence on doing things her way. Creating her first perfume was no exception.

The Guest Nose: Thierry Mugler Angel Eau de Toilette


by jtd

As a rule, flankers suck, and it’s tiring to see them follow such predictable patterns:
X
X Cool
Eau d’X
X Sport
X Light
Voile d’X
X Fleur d’Iris (de Jasmin, de Rose…)
X Ice
X Summer Edition
X Chérie
X Extreme
Nuit d’X
X Noir (Rouge, Vert, Blanc…)
That list took me 30 seconds and not one of the flanker names is intentionally ironic. Which is more disconcerting: a bad perfume followed by ten flankers -- or a good one? Niche sometimes comes up with cleverer names, but it’s the same schtick as the larger mainstream releases.

Edible Perfume: Turkish Delight



I've been gripped by the concept of Turkish Delight since I first encountered it as a child in C. S. Lewis' Lion, the Witch and the Wardrobe. In the story, a little boy is offered enchanted Turkish Delight by the terrifying White Witch of Narnia. The treat acts as a combination truth serum/kid heroin.

Bulgari Omnia


Bulgari Omnia is the perfume equivalent of that charming-but-mysterious trans-clique chameleon from high school -- the one who moved effortlessly between theatre geeks and jocks, accepted by all, alienating none. Omnia, along with stablemate Bulgari Black as well as the likes of Hermès Eau de Merveilles and Thierry Mugler Womanity, manages to maintain the integrity of the attractive loner while still being sought after to turn any party into a bitchin' party.

Perfume Pen Pals: Roger & Gallet Bois d'Orange



Fumies,

In response to a recent Perfume Pen Pals post, "Help Dan Find a Citrus Cologne", you all weighed in with a orange grove's worth of glorious suggestions. Your hesperidic proposals have inadvertently created a marvelous "to sniff" list for any curious cologne seeker, for which I thank you. And -- cue the choir of angels -- they have also led Dan to his cologne nirvana. (Is that mixing religious metaphors?)

Perfume Pen Pals: The Smell of a Man's Taint



Dan,

I got this message on my YouTube channel:
"I currently wear Hermes' Un Jardin en Méditerranée, which I adore for the indolics. I describe it as diabetic urine. I'm looking for another heavy indolic. I want something that smells like a man's taint after a long day on the construction site. Suggestions?"
Katie

Floris Royal Arms, Chloe L'Eau de Chloe and Carolina Herrera 212 VIP


Always approach unknown perfumes with a healthy fear.
This video is number two in a series of three shot with Krista Madden at the HQ of cheeky style website Beauty and the Dirt (see Part One here). I like doing these quicky reviews at Krista's sample-filled office because it's the perfume version of a pot luck dinner (one where I arrive empty-handed and leave smelling like McCormick & Schmick's on Mother's Day). We go nose-to-nose with the following fragrances: Floris Royal Arms Chloé L'Eau de Chloé Carolina Herrera 212 VIP
Royal Arms is available from FlorisLondon.com at appx $157 for 3.4 oz L'Eau de Chloé is available from Amazon.com at $65 for 1.7 oz 212 VIP is available from FragranceX.com at $62 for 1.7 oz
Looking for a fragrance recommendation? Visit Fume Finder: the Katie Puckrik Smells fragrance app.

Fumes in the News: Perfume is a Ballerina's Perfect Partner


Ballerina Lauren Cuthbertson (above), one of the Royal Ballet's leading dancers, says in today's London Sunday Times Magazine (Apr 1, 2012) that she uses perfume to get into character for her demanding roles:

"There are other things I do, like giving each heroine I play their own perfume. When I played Manon, I wore Lanvin and Guerlain."

Thierry Mugler Alien Taste of Fragrance


When 12” “remixes” of New Wave hits were introduced in the 80's, they usually amounted to nothing more than an extended intro with a Syndrum breakdown jammed in the middle of the otherwise untampered-with Simple Minds or Human League track.

Katie Puckrik Smells BBC Radio London



Yesterday morning, encouraged by bright sunshine and the merrily swaying daffodils in gardens and window boxes from Bloomsbury to Oxford Circus, I strolled with a cup of "flat white" (the dry cappuccino that is currently Londoners' preferred form of caffeine) to BBC Broadcasting House. The occasion was an appearance on a Sunday a.m. radio show hosted by Penny Smith.

Maison Francis Kurkdjian Oud


At the first squirt of Maison Francis Kurkdjian Oud, I'm reminded of how Ormonde Jayne's Linda Pilkington described to me the smell of oud encountered during her trips to the Arab market in Bangkok: “like locomotive oil dripping on smelly cheese.”

Vera Wang Princess Night, Coach Poppy and Stella McCartney L.I.L.Y


Katie and Krista nose-meld with unknown perfumes.
I can't believe I've been in London for an entire month now! The new car smell hasn't even begun to fade from the experience, probably because it's so different to the London I experienced when I lived here in the last century. A big change is the demographic: there are now oodles of young Europeans swarming the streets and I hear Italian, French and a smorgasbord of eastern European languages everywhere I go. Practically the only place I hear the yowly London accent is from construction sites.

Perfume Pen Pals: Help Dan Find a Citrus Cologne


Katie,

Lubin L'Eau Neuve just arrived in the mail, and it's a nifty little citrus. It's minty and medicinal at first, and very much more about the rind than the fruit. It's fun and sassy and if it were your friend, your mother would disapprove. She'd say, "That L'Eau Neuve, she has a very smart mouth." (Though, let's face it, L'Eau Neuve's mom would say the same thing about you.)

Burberry Body


Burberry Body is a contemporary take on an 80s style (read "loud") abstract floral. Floral, that is, until a hot wooden musk storms in and stomps all the flowers to death. Hot Wooden Musk's thug friend is Aggressive Soap, so you end up smelling loudly clean. The body in Body is nowhere to be found. Somebody call the cops.
Body is available from FragranceX.com and Perfume.com, starting at $47 for 1.1 oz
Looking for a fragrance recommendation? Visit Fume Finder: the Katie Puckrik Smells fragrance app.

Perfume Pen Pals: Nasomatto Pardon and Parfums de Nicolai L'Eau Chic



Katie,

Just read a description of Nasomatto Pardon. Notes include oud...and magnolia! Ick. That seems like an awful combination.

The Guest Nose: The Heir to Aromatics Elixir

by jtd

Perfumer Bernard Chant's brilliance can be seen in the two families of perfume that stem from his Cabochard for Gres and Aromatics Elixir (AE) for Clinique. Disregard the current reformulated version of Cabochard, you can extrapolate Cabochard's genius from the current Aramis by Aramis and Estée Lauder Azurée. Both are based the original Cabochard and are hard leather chypres. The AE family, formerly just AE and its slightly declawed version for men, Aramis 900, now includes Aromatics Elixir Perfumer's Reserve (PR). AE's genius is self-evident. Open the bottle. Breathe. It's incomparable. And despite likely reformulation it continues today in its largely original form.

Annick Goutal Nuit Etoilee and Perfumer Isabelle Doyen

Katie and Isabelle: smelling like an imaginary movie.

Nuit Etoilée was inspired by a movie, perfumer Isabelle Doyen is telling me. We're at the Annick Goutal shop in London's swank Belgravia hood, talking about her latest creation for the line. But don't be in a hurry to nuke the popcorn, people, because this particular movie plays only in her head, as well as in the head of her colleague Camille Goutal. Talk about limited distribution.

Tom Ford Santal Blush


Sandalwood lends a fragrance the sweet/sour savoriness of lived-in skin. The traditional but over-harvested Mysore variety is appealingly soft and tangy, but it's the spicier and less rare Australian kind that is cropping up these days when “sandalwood” is cited in perfume ingredient lists. Not to mention sandalwood aromachemicals, of course, which aren't necessarily a budget option, owing to the number of steps involved in making the test tube version smell as good as Mother Nature's recipe. Santal Blush's sandalwood veers in the direction of Australia's: a big, honkin' spicy number powered with full Tom Ford Private Blend thrust. It stays big and woody in the manner of Diptyque Tam Dao, rather than the dried clean-sweat effect bundled inside Frédéric Malle Geranium Pour Monsieur and Etro Sandalo. Personally, I prefer the more animalic style of sandalwood for the way it morphs into the skin, but Santal Blush is a solid, friendly scent that works nicely once the initial “WOOD!” settles into “wood”.
Santal Blush is available from Amazon.com and TomFord.com starting at $236 for 1.7 oz
Looking for a fragrance recommendation? Visit Fume Finder: the Katie Puckrik Smells fragrance app.

Promosexual: Ormonde Jayne Isfarkand at Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park

The Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park: it's fancy and it smells Isfarkand-y.

One of the traditional perks of fashion editors is the promotional event: a lavish party celebrating milestones (or even just milepebbles) in the journey of a style or beauty brand. Of course, the more seasoned the editor, the less perky these perks come to seem, which leads to the kind of P.T. Barnum approach we saw with Stella McCartney's fête/runway show/magic display/dance performance/fabulosity extravaganza the other night at London Fashion Week.

With style bloggers now part of (and in many cases, directing) the conversation, the promosexual lifestyle is swallowing up digital publishers, too. Which is fine by me, because I'm still unjaded enough to consider these swanky little meet'n'greets with champagne and petit fours a “social life”. A social life peppered with interesting and talented people you wouldn't necessarily run into at the supermarket. (Although recently I was almost run over by cult comedy writer Laura Kightlinger outside my local Gelson's in LA.)

My first promosexual event since I touched down in London last week was the launch of Ormonde Jayne's Isfarkand bath line as the Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park's signature in-room toiletries. A coup for Ormonde Jayne, and a nice match for the London branch of the five-star hotel, who sought to burnish their British location with a best-of-Britain perfume brand. But as we sipped our Ormonde Jayne cocktails (gin, rose water, orange bitters, cardamom and lime syrup), OJ perfumer Linda Pilkington fretted at the word “toiletries”, finding it a bit déclassé. “Maybe 'amenities' would be better?” she offered. “'Hotel amenities',” I mused. “Sounds like prostitutes.” The Mandarin Oriental manager shot me a look. “What are you going to be like after a second cocktail?” he muttered under his breath.

“Well-behaved” was the answer, because the group immediately sat down to a fancy-pants meal of saffron risotto with scallops in orange sauce, followed by a mandarin parfait dolled up with lime dacquise and chocolate bergamot coulis. This was the chefs' edible interpretation of Isfarkand, although a loose one, as there is no shellfish to be found in the scent, obviously. As we dined, Linda began to detail her special history with the Mandarin Oriental. I ventured a guess: “You lost your virginity here?” (Boy, that Ormonde Jayne cocktail sure was packing a punch.) Sadly, the reality is somewhat more tame: she became besotted with the luxury hotel after a chance cup of tea in the Hong Kong location 25 years ago.

For anyone seeking to enjoy a cup of tea -- or indeed, lose their virginity -- at the Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park, don't miss the limey, woody, peppery pep of Isfarkand, which is carried through shower gel, bar soap, shampoo, conditioner and body lotion.

Thierry Mugler Womanity Taste of Fragrance

Now with added boings and chikka chikkas.


The gang at Mugler Perfumes have always been especially gung-ho about giving the DJ treatment to their fragrances: plenty of remixes of the same old songs to keep sales brisk and bodies moving on the dance floor. The latest remix gambit is “Le Goût du Parfum”, in which Angel, A*Men, Alien and Womanity are zjushed up with a selected “flavor enhancer.” I think we can all agree that given the stadium-level volume of the aforementioned scents in their original mix, enhancement is not a requirement that immediately springs to mind.

London Calling, Katie Answering




Radio silence on Katie Puckrik Smells for the past week has been due to preparations for temporary relocation to London, England. It's a tad contrary for this sybarite sniffer to abandon Los Angeles just when February temps in the 70s have triggered an olfactory paradise of mock orange trees and star jasmine. But duty calls -- duty in this case being nudging a handful of professional prospects into full flower. But let's not be coy -- I'll cite any excuse to justify time in one of my most beloved cities with some of my dearest friends.

I'll be here for three months, and as well as continuing to report on my perfume findings via words and vids, I'll also be launching another blog to cover my style and culture discoveries. Details forthcoming...

Thank you, dear fumies, for being stowaways on this next adventure.

Valentine's Day Fragrance Picks



Valentine's Day is rolling around again, and you know what that means: fragrance for everyone -- even the dog! Here are my bright ideas for his and her scents to wear and to give to make your puffy heart-filled day as dreamily romantic as it can possibly be.

Jennifer Aniston Jennifer Aniston




I was about to say that “Jennifer Aniston” is a pretty unevocative name for a perfume, but then I realized that you can't get more evocative than suggesting that the entire essence of a whole person has been crammed into a tiny bottle.

And unlike most celebrity scents, which usually smell like the dregs of the berry vat, the cupcake vat and the tuberose vat poured into a single new vat stamped with the star's name, “Jennifer Aniston” (quote marks to differentiate from the living, breathing, vigorously yogacized Jennifer Aniston) actually conjures the actress' natural, beachy, mineral water-quaffing beauty.

The Guest Nose: Bond No. 9 New York Amber


By Stefush

Okay, so Bond No. 9 has this new EDP called New York Amber. I know this because on a recent visit to NYC, I was at their shop during a ridiculous rainstorm that had me trying to huff strips while my clothing dripped all over the countertops.

New York Amber is not what I’d call an amber. It’s what I’d call a soup. Specifically, hot and sour soup from your favorite Chinese take-out place, complete with the added comfort whiff of the jasmine note standing in for the little plastic ladle they serve it with. Somehow this amber, with its predominant notes of oud, saffron and rose, comes out smelling exactly like the first course at the Szechuan Dragon.

Winter 2012 Top Fragrances and Other Stuff


We've been experiencing those curious 80 degree January days here in Los Angeles, the kind accompanied by dry hot wind loaded with freeway dust and desert viruses, livid tomato sunsets and mutterings of “earthquake weather.” It's a sneak preview of summer before the winter rains start in earnest, and this is the meteorological setting in which I reflect upon some of my favorite sensory diversions of the last few months.

Perfume Pen Pals: Comme des Garcons Eau de Parfum



Katie,

What of this new Comme des Garçons Eau de Parfum? Did you try that one? It seems like it might smell like Cumming.

Dan

Perfume Pen Pals: Humiecki & Graef Blask (Part Two)



Dan,

So, did your Humiecki & Graef Blask arrive yet? With its red wine, walnuts and bay leaf, does it smell like salad dressing or what?

Katie

Perfume Pen Pals: Parfums MDCI La Belle Helene



Katie,

Remember my anticipation over Parfums MDCI La Belle Helene, how enthusiastic I was because it was reported to be an pear/osmanthus/licorice/wood and that sounded ideal?

Two Perfumed Days in Paris - Day Two


On the second and final day of my brief Parisian idyll, I started the day right with Champagne at L'Hôtel Le Bristol, the swank setting for a bloggers' meet with Michel Almairac, the nose behind Bottega Veneta's debut perfume. (Read about the encounter here.) Fume talk with Almairac and esteemed perfume writers, combined with très fancy hors d'oeuvres, got me prepped and lubed (okay, maybe it was just that second glass of mid-day Champagne) for another sniff-binge around the city.

Rochas Man


When it comes to stylistic choices for men, there are unspoken yet ironclad rules of what the hairier sex are “allowed” to enjoy, wear and use. Too many colors, too much design, and the item, be it shoes, spectacles or a shirt, veers dangerously into dandy territory. Which is fine if you're actually a dandy, but less so if you're just a guy who is sick of looking like the Banana Republic catalog and wants to throw a little spice into the mix.