Christian Dior Oud Ispahan


Today's newest new oud is from Christian Dior's Privée line, harkening back to oldest old Persia with its name: Oud Ispahan. Oud Ispahan was created by François Demachy, who has authored the slew of Privée releases over the past two years. OI works a rosy angle, the initial tip-off coming from the pretty pale pink juice. But nowhere close to being pale is the scent itself, which booms out of the bottle with the blind force of the Titanic broadsiding an iceberg.


The eau de parfum joins its Privée big brother Leather Oud in the “so thick you can cut it with a knife -- if your knife has a blow torch attachment” category. OI starts off working the same side of the street as By Kilian Rose Oud and Trish McEvoy Dark Rose Oud, what with the savory/fruity/floral blur of oud + rose. But after 20 minutes or so, OI rips off its frilly rose apron to reveal a head-to-toe saddle leather bodysuit, humming with sweat. It's dense and gamey, without any lilt or frisk. Peppery leather and ambery animal all add up to a big bear of a rose, hibernating heavily on your skin.

Thankfully, this perfume stumblebum galumphs to safety before hitting the pain threshold, unlike the Bond No. 9 ouds. In that company, OI might be considered elegantly modulated. If you prefer your fragrances on the hearty Manwich side rather than teatime finger food, then Oud Ispahan is for you.

19 comments:

  1. Katie, what do you think of Midnight Oud by JhaG? I didn't know I liked oud, but I guess I do. CD Ispahan sounds interesting to me because of the rose element, a feature of all of the JhaG.

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    1. I love Juliette Has a Gun Midnight Oud! I've reviewed it here:
      http://www.katiepuckriksmells.com/2010/08/juliette-has-gun-midnight-oud.html

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    2. Thanks, Katie. I missed this one, so I'm glad to be able to read it now. "Limited Edition," huh? I just bought the thing!

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    3. Would you recommend it as a cheap(er) alternative to BK Rose Oud? I love me some Killians, but the expense is killing me!

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    4. Lola, try Trish McEvoy Black Rose Oud. Very similar, not as pricey.

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  2. I love original Ispahan. Wonder the price point for this one. Is prive collection a new trend? Armani has been selling it off for $150 a bottle for long time.

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    1. I never knew the original. The Privée line has been going for a few years, but last year suddenly there a bunch of new ones. The price point starts around $200 for 125 ml, as I recall.

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  3. I'm still trying to wrap my brain around Kurkdjian's Oud, which makes me squeal in an Elvis Fan Club kind of way. But, seriously, is this the last nail in the oud coffin? How many more ways can it possibly be done?

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    1. I'm not against a multitude of ouds, any more than I'm against rose perfumes, or colognes, or woody numbers, or any other popular and oft-reinterpreted genre. As long as it smells nice, it's welcome at my perfume party. But the ouds stacking up now are starting to intersect, smell-wise, more and more. Oud is tricky since it's such a domineering note, which accounts for the sameyness when you try a bunch at once.

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  4. Katie
    Have you tried the new Guerlain - Rose Nacree du Desert ?.
    For me, this was easily the best of all the recent Rose/Oud Combo's.

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    1. Would love to try those new "Arabic" Guerlains! Looking out for them.

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  5. If it's got no "lilt and frisk", I think I'll give it a wide berth - which, given its Titanic-like proportions, may take some manoeuvring... : - )

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    1. Be sure to sound your foghorn as you do.

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  6. Hello i wonder i just bought it and I realize I I only like the 20 first minutes but am not a big fan of kilian rose wood I need something in the middle that smells like a real Arabian oud what would recommend please ?

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  7. hi katie - do you know where i can buy it? having problems as out of stock everywhere i have tried - thanks Johnny

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    1. Hi Johnny - I see it at the Dior counters in London at Selfridges, Harrods and at the Dior store on Bond St.

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  8. Hi Katie, so I was in a weekend away & my hotel was near Bloomingdale where every day I get to spray oud Isphan on one hand & rose nacree Guerlain on the other hand, guess which one I bought ? well I'm an Arabic lady after all, I got the the Manwich one. Hessa

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    1. Manwiiiiiiiiiiiich! Those Arab-flavored Guerlains are nice. I ended up liking Encens Mythique d’Orient the best out of that bunch.

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