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Today's newest new oud is from Christian Dior's Privée line, harkening back to oldest old Persia with its name: Oud Ispahan. Oud Ispahan was created by François Demachy, who has authored the slew of Privée releases over the past two years. OI works a rosy angle, the initial tip-off coming from the pretty pale pink juice. But nowhere close to being pale is the scent itself, which booms out of the bottle with the blind force of the Titanic broadsiding an iceberg.
The eau de parfum joins its Privée big brother Leather Oud in the “so thick you can cut it with a knife -- if your knife has a blow torch attachment” category. OI starts off working the same side of the street as By Kilian Rose Oud and Trish McEvoy Dark Rose Oud, what with the savory/fruity/floral blur of oud + rose. But after 20 minutes or so, OI rips off its frilly rose apron to reveal a head-to-toe saddle leather bodysuit, humming with sweat. It's dense and gamey, without any lilt or frisk. Peppery leather and ambery animal all add up to a big bear of a rose, hibernating heavily on your skin.
Thankfully, this perfume stumblebum galumphs to safety before hitting the pain threshold, unlike the Bond No. 9 ouds. In that company, OI might be considered elegantly modulated. If you prefer your fragrances on the hearty Manwich side rather than teatime finger food, then Oud Ispahan is for you.