Perfume Pen Pals: Christian Dior Leather Oud and New Look 1947


Katie,

Today I'm wearing Dior's new La Collection Leather Oud. But the cats think I'm wearing Le Labo Oud 27. And cats know their smells. I sprayed it once and we all agree it was too much.


Overzealous application of Dior Leather Oud earns you two paws' worth of claws in the head.


And yet Dior only sells Leather Oud in 8.5 ounce bottles (tubs? tanks?). That's like selling Everclear Big Gulps.


Everclear in the water bowl makes Charlotte and Audrey feel extra huggy.


It's a potent stanky animalic oud, and I blame it for my pneumonia relapse, no matter what the doctor says.

Dan




Dan,

Gosh! Lay off the Leather Oud, the marathon dating, everything except therapeutic kitty petting.

Katie




Katie,

These new Diors are putting me to sleep. Vétiver is vetiver, Cologne Royale is a boring Eau de Cologne, and Milly-La-Forêt smells like a Woolite flanker (does Woolite have flankers?).

Only New Look 1947 caught my attention so far, and only because it's one of those old-fashioned, full-bodied perfumes that makes me yearn for a girlfriend. Or when I have a girlfriend, it makes me yearn for a different girlfriend, or a girlfriend from a different era, because no woman my age wears perfumes like this anymore. It's like coming across a beautiful corset: what use is it?



Aside from New Look, I'm bored with Dior and so today I grabbed a bag of samples, reached in, and pulled out L'Artisan Parfumeur Mechant Loup. And Mechant Loup said, "Dude, you have no idea what boring is until you've worn me."

And it turns out Mechant Loup doesn't lie. I couldn't remember what it smelled like five seconds after I smelled it. I kept smelling and forgetting, smelling and forgetting. It's the Millard Fillmore of perfumes.


Millard Fillmore...or Alec Baldwin on a rough day?


I'm meeting a woman for a walk along the waterfront tomorrow, and I'm going to wear Portrait of a Lady. What do you think of them apples?

Dan




Dan,

Funnily enough, today I was amply perfumed by the cloud of Portrait of a Lady that still lingers on the coat I was wearing when I first tried it at Barneys in December. And I just got another compliment on it! A compliment on a two-month-old leftover cloud.

I wonder what your waterfront lady's going to make of you tomorrow. She should check herself in two months' time for a leftover cloud of you.

Katie


Charlotte & Audrey via Dan Rolleri
Corset via

15 comments:

  1. The first time I tried Vanillary: I took off my shirt at the end of the day, put it in the laundry, left it for about three days, put it through the wash. The scent on it was still quite strong. I didn't wear it again for three months just so I wouldn't have to wash it again and take away the lovely smell!

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  2. xaryax,

    The perfume that I've noticed has radioactive staying power is Molecule 01. The husb does one spray, and it clings to his shirt the whole day, then through the washing machine AND the dryer. That's one mammy-rammin' molecule, there!

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  3. I too found the Diors to be something of a snoozefest, with the exception of Leather Oud and Mitzah. My dogs don't object to the animalic/slightly burnt/leathery potency of Leather Oud at all. And no, they don't roll in poo. At least not while they're on their leashes. They would stand with Dan in an objection to Milly-La-Forêt. Because anything that smells of Woolite smells too much like a bath.

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  4. I have nothing here to add as I've not tried a one of this lot. I'm still trying to find time to get to the original formulations of the Dior line from back inna day.

    Dan - if you like the stink that smells like a Lover From Another Era - I would suggest Chanel's Eau Premiere. I LOVE THAT STUFF.

    Speaking of which, can anyone enlighten me as to whether there's a stink out there that includes both ylang ylang and oud?

    If I could find a fragrance that rode the lightning between Eau Premiere and Byredo's Accord Oud, I think I would instantly transform into the worlds' first human comprised wholly from LOVE DNA.

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  5. Nothing beats Andy Tauer's 12 Eau D'Epices. Well maybe POAL might beat it. Still Eau D'Epices seems to last weeks on my coat and shirt, that I was wearing with it. Am I on the fence, if I still haven't made up my mind about Leather Oud? Its nice, seems familiar, safe. Just don't have that WOW factor with it. New Look is exactly as you describe it, Dan. Not sure if I could wear, but for my wife oh yes. It reminds me a bit like Caron's Oud. Sort of in a refined way. Dignified elegance? Katie, if you are headed to Europe anytime soon try those Caron Oud's, you will not be disappointed.

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  6. RE Caron Ouds: Are they not sold USA Domestic?

    Yeah, I know getting samples is a drag, but they aren't even sold here?

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  7. Paul,

    No they are not available here. One thing I have heard is they may be released this year over here. Fingers crossed!

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  8. Weird: Caron + Oud. For some reason I can't see this house doing Oud-based scents. I'm too enamoured of Pour Un Homme, I guess.

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  9. Stefush,

    Have you tried Amouage Lyric Women? It's a full bodied rose/incense/ylang-ylang, and while oud is not involved, it certainly is earthy and full. The ylang-ylang strikes an unusual and sexy note.


    Gojira,

    I have indeed tried Caron Secret Oud at Harrods in London. Remember it seemed pretty "classic perfume" style, borderline stodgy, but I was also trying 419 other perfumes that day. I do recall that it was different to the Band-Aid Montale ouds, with the oud more blended.

    And Dan sent me a decant of his Caron Oud Extrait, which I'm wearing right now. Again, another "vintage" approach, currently smelling like a combination of rose/florals, leather, and a borderline-mildewy wash cloth. Could be good as it wears on...

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  10. Love the notion of a Woolite flanker!

    I really like 1947 New Look - it is - as I think Museinwoodenshoes observed - a lily scented cold cream and powder number, and also reminds me a bit of J'Adore L'Eau Florale and has the faint spice notes of Lys Carmin. If I ever come back to SF on a bedsock hunting mission, and were to meet you, I could wear it - just in the spirit of being "a woman your age", obviously. And that's only a best guess.

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  11. Sorry, I just gave it an even Newer Look by writing the name round the wrong way.

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  12. Katie,

    I did not get that Mildewy wash cloth out of it. I agree it is "vintage". I think it is what I like most about it. We can go on about Bond No.9 "new take on Oud". But this was a perfect example of taking oud and placing it Western perfumery without Saffron and Incense.

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  13. Stefush, I am with you on Chanel Eau Premiere! I also LOVE it! It is my go-to for a night out, or even a day out when I want to feel glam and sexy, albeit in a discreet way. It would be my pick for a LBD-version of a perfume.

    And Katie, thanks! I don't think I can ever look at Alec Baldwin again without seeing Millard Fillmore. It's the eyes, isn't it? So if a movie is ever made about the esteemed Mr. Fillmore, we know who to call! Talk about the right person at the wrong time! Ha!

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  14. Vanessa,

    You're certainly stacking up your justifications for a visit to San Francisco!


    Gojira,

    Caron Oud Extrait ended up a bit musty on me. But I heartily agree with your observation: "this was a perfect example of taking oud and placing it Western perfumery without Saffron and Incense."

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  15. ScentsofSmell,

    So with you on the Little Black Dress-ness of Eau Premiere!

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