So this evening, I put on a sample of Incense Oud, which is not one of the Calice Becker By Kilians, but instead one of the Sidonie Lancesseur By Kilians, the perfumer behind the less memorable perfumes in the line.
Have you tried it? Do you remember it? It's okay, more incense than oud, and more sweet woodsy warmth than either of those things (but you can't exactly call a perfume Sweet Woodsy Warmth and expect not to get laughed at.)
One slice of sweet woodsy warmth coming right up!
The incense is on the transparent side and the whole creation is rather inconsequential. And yet if I had a bottle, I'd occasionally wear it. Of course if I had a bottle, you should revoke my perfume license and have me committed because it's $400.
I need a nap.
I told you three weeks ago that I'd tried it, but you were probably in the middle of your 10th pneumonia relapse and it didn't sink in. I'd done an in-store whore's bath at Saks, and have since been scrounging samples every time I'm near a By Kilian cask.
I find Incense Oud very peppery at the start, and a bit sparkling, like frankincense and aldehydes vibrating against each other. There's something of the dry airiness of Frédéric Malle Portrait of a Lady to it, and they do share the Lady's incense/rose/patchouli/sandalwood/musk. Oh! And the geranium, too.
Given the relative force of Pure Oud and Rose Oud, Incense Oud is more subtle. All three are what I consider "woofer" perfumes, revealing their beauty almost subsonically, as opposed to tweeter standout By Kilian Love and Tears. (Love and Tears' jasmine is shrill and sharp and sibilant. And Amouage Epic Man is the ultimate woofer perfume.)
Kicking back with some mellow oud jams.
Incense Oud is nowhere near the monolithic incense brick of Comme des Garçons Avignon. It's more like an incense pillow. A pillow filled with crumbled monolithic incense brick.
I've just reapplied my sample now, and I'd say it comes off like a more masculine version of the Lady, because of the pepperiness. But there's a real similarity in the feel. I like it!
Jeez, my "monkey, Neanderthal, man" scale is becoming ever more incremental with all these rose ouds there are suddenly in the world. Because like you and your collection of black V-neck sweaters, I feel I need to possess every new iteration of the genre.
Rose and oud! Oud and incense! Rose and oud and incense! It's turning into Monty Python's "Spam Song." But I love them all. Even the ones I haven't smelled yet.
"The Spam Song"