Perfume Pen Pals: Washington Tremlett Black Tie and more Tann Rokka Signature


Dan,

I've just spritzed on a bit of the Washington Tremlett Black Tie decant you sent (I'm still marveling that you finally bought this thing I was banging on about a year and a half ago), and by contrast to Comme des Garçons Rose, it smells so geraniumy. I love it so much right now. Thank god for geraniums.

Katie


Katie,

Let's be honest about Black Tie, I only bought it because I came upon an $80 deal. If it were $160, I'd still be on the sideline.

But here's the miraculous thing, and this almost never happens: I like it a lot. A few people online called it the most wearable rose/oud and I think it is. It's almost transparent, which is such an achievement for an oud. Though I suspect oud lovers would balk because transparency is obviously not the reason you buy oud.

Still, I do enjoy it and I'm surprised it hasn't developed much of a following during these oud-crazy times.

Dan

P.S. I've decided I'm not crazy about Tann Rokka Signature and your comparison of it to some of the Histoires de Parfums is spot-on. It's brighter than I had imagined when reading about it -- much too bright, like a glitter shirt. For some reason I thought it would be rich and incense-y.

I don't know what Jude Law is thinking. Maybe Sienna Miller likes it on him. If Sienna Miller liked something on me, even if it was a glitter shirt, I'd wear it. Provided I didn't have to leave the house. I'd just sit there in my glitter shirt and patiently wait for Sienna to come home.

And I'd begin to resent her over time. And I'd sometimes not put on the shirt. And she'd say, "Hey, where's your glitter shirt?" And I'd have to make up some story about spilling malt vinegar on it (she eats nothing but fish and chips, that one). And then she'd find it hidden under the bed and know I was lying to her. And once that trust is broken, it's impossible to maintain a healthy relationship. So you can see where this is going.


Jude Law dashing out to buy more malt vinegar.


Dan,

So, two relationships (Signature and Sienna Miller) bite the dust. I was about to caution you against future impulsiveness, but then again, some of your dalliances have been successful -- like Black Tie.

I always had a strong instinct that you would cotton right onto Black Tie. I think it shares a similar stance with Tom Ford Noir de Noir, but...y'know...less clowny.


Black Tie isn't as thick/chocolatey as Noir de Noir, and it's not as gourmand as L'Artisan Parfumeur Safran Troublant, but it does share their rich, almost nutty saffron. Saffron does something delectable in perfumes that I have a tough time articulating.

Not like geranium, which is easier for me to qualify: rosy with a crisp lemon overlay.

But are you certain Black Tie has oud? I don't think it does. No wonder you find the oud "almost transparent".

Katie


Katie,

I keep forgetting there's no oud in there because it smells a little like oud. And because several people compare it to People of the Labyrinths A*Maze.

Here's what Now Smell This wrote:

"Agar wood is not listed in Black Tie’s notes (saffron, walnut, galbanum, salvia, rose, geranium, tuberose, sandalwood, patchouli, vanilla, musk), but the two fragrances are certainly similar -- if Black Tie does not have an oudh note, it mimics one, albeit without the occasionally overbearing medicinal haze that sometimes announces the presence of agar wood."


Dan


Dan,

This calls for a Black Tie and A*Maze dance-off! I just applied both, and here's the scorecard on their moves:

While both are saffron roses, A*Maze is sharper, spicier, richer, rosier and heavier, and Black Tie is softer and almost gourmand in comparison. I'm guessing that's Black Tie's vanilla giving a twirl.

When first smelled next to A*Maze, Black Tie is minty. The sheer, green rose feel of Black Tie's geranium, along with its lack of oud, renders it a lighter option, though BT is by no means a "light" scent.

Katie


Katie,

BT is an A*Maze for warm weather.

Oh and by the way, TR Signature isn't bad, it's just not to my taste. It's the smell of an elegant woman wearing flowy satin lounge pants, having friends over for drinks and hors d'oeuvres. Her husband is never home, but he makes up for it in jewelry and spa memberships. Which seemed like a satisfying trade-off until I heard her crying alone in the den that night. Now Signature makes me a little sad.



What any of this has to do with Jude Law is beyond me. I really think he needs to find a new fragrance.

Dan

11 comments:

  1. So, I wasn't sure about what parts of the Jude Law/Sienna Miller story were true. Tann Rokka? Glitter shirts? Fish and chips? I thought that maybe you were both making it all up as you went along. So I googled Jude Law and Tann Rokka and there it was! He wears it! Should I google Sienna Miller and fish and chips?

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  2. melisand61: It's the essential truths of our stories that are significant, the life lessons they teach, and not every small detail. When you Google, while you move closer to literal truth, you risk losing touch with those essential truths. Believe that Sienna Miller eats fish and chips and you might find a whole world opening up for you.

    But, yes, Jude Law does wear Tann Rokka. That came from Katie. Of the two of us, I'm more of the fabulist. Which may or may not be true. Who can tell with me?

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  3. m61, you should Google Sienna Miller and Dan Rolleri while you're at it, because Dan's sweet on her. He once commented to me, "Sienna is a little tigress". Which might've made more sense in context, but only barely. Because if Sienna Miller's a tigress, it's of the Beanie Baby variety.

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  4. I had to laugh - at myself and at Dan. I read his comment about being a fabulist and leapt immediately to one conclusion. Then I raced (not far, cos I looked online) to my Merriam-Webster Dictionary and looked up fabulist. Ah, a creator or writer of fables. Not what I first thought (You ARE fabulous, I'm sure!) Then I got a chuckle out of the example provided. (a once highly admired journalist whose reputation is now that of a disgraced fabulist) Say it isn't so!?!

    I do so enjoy the flights of fancy you take us on. Grrr!

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  5. I believe! Yes! I do believe! Fish and chips it is! And Katie, I don't need Google. The relationship was implied in the malt vinegar-soaked glitter shirt story. Despite his claims to be a fabulist. I don't believe him. About the fabulist part. Or maybe I do.

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  6. I prefer to think of Dan as fabulous, with a rich inner fantasy life. Thanks for the great review, I have tried neither of these, but am attracted to the rose-oud in theory, if not in practice.

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  7. Scott, then you should definitely try Black Tie, because the oud contained therein is entirely theoretical.

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  8. am I being stupid- the black tie thing is a Gwen Stefani?

    I love the Tann Roka- I'd probably like it extra specially on Jude despite his er errant ways- but I love it- and I wear it- it's weird for sure, musky, warm, a bit soapy maybe- I don't know I just likes it

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  9. I took one look at that top and immediately googled "Jude Law golf", to find this telling entry in Wikipedia:

    "English actor Jude Law is the apparel ambassador for Alfred Dunhill international adverts. He has represented the company in Asia since 2005."

    And then this:

    "Alfred Dunhill sponsors golf tournaments, formerly the Alfred Dunhill Cup, currently the Alfred Dunhill Links Championship."

    I bet you a large portion of cod 'n' chips he's being paid to wear that top outdoors...

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  10. Never mind the glitter shirt, what kind of mad, psychedelic duffer would wear that striped sweater-vest thing in public...

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  11. Rose, Black Tie is by Washington Tremlett, 19th c shirtmakers, apparently, but whose name always makes me think of Revolutionary War heroes. But I'm sure Gwen Stefani could turn all of that into something super kawaii!

    flitterS and queenC - so glad you picked up on Jude's zesty pullover! I was searching for a shot of him in a glitter shirt, and that was the next best thing.

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