What's your take on Guerlain L'Heure Bleue? Wikipedia says it's akin to Après l'Ondée, though less bright and more melancholic. (Can you believe I'm going to Wikipedia before I go to you? I can't either.) I like Après l'Ondée very much, and even its modern cousin, L'Eau d'Hiver, which I've been wearing steadily since buying a bottle at the Frédéric Malle event. But I find Après l'Ondée melancholic enough. Do I need to smell more melancholic? Is L'Heure Bleue eleven on the melancholy amplifier? Just typing that last question made me excited; what does that say about me?
|Some prefer their amplifers calibrated for maximum melancholy.|
Also, and this is always the debate with Guerlain, what of the eau de parfum versus the eau de toilette? I realize most people prefer the heavier concentrations, but when it comes to a man (me) wearing a very feminine fragrance, the eau de toilette seems like an appropriate compromise. And the eau de parfum seems like the perfume equivalent of a cross dresser wearing a garish gown. I want to be melancholic but not garishly melancholic. A tasteful black dress is fine.
I'm beginning to think this is more of a subject matter for my therapist than for you. If only I could get the two of you together for an appointment, the ground I could cover!
I actually have a bottle of L'Heure Bleue parfum I received as a gift. I'll go put some on now. Okay, I'm back. Wow! What a thing. I was tempted to answer you without trying it on again, and my answer would have been: I've never understood this perfume, it's sort of plasticky/chemically, I don't get it. I seem to recall my mom used to have a bottle on her dresser, though I don't remember ever smelling it on her.
But now! Boy, it really helps to have a reference point for smelling the classics, or at least greater familiarity with the odor of individual materials, because right now I'm loving this perfume, and what I thought of as "plasticky", I now realize is the dissonance between that dry, dry, woody violet and the bite of the carnation. It's one of the least sweet Guerlains I've smelled, though Après l'Ondée is drier still. And certainly more melancholic. L'Heure Bleue is maybe about three on the melancholy amp.
I'm still not quite there with it yet, though.
So you disagree with Wikipedia? It doesn't assign melancholic numbers, but it clearly states that L'Heure Bleue is more melancholic than Après L'Ondée. Though I'm dubious about that, having found Après l'Ondée so very melancholic. Dubious but hopeful.
The Guerlain parfums are too expensive for me to justify right now but I've heard too many people slam the edt's, so I splurged on three edp's: L'Heure Bleue, Mitsouko and Shalimar. I'm too tired to research the status of the reformulations, I'll just try wearing them and hope they smell nice.
Yes, I disagree with Wikipedia on the relative melancholy of those Guerlains. I'm very interested to hear what you think of L'Heure Bleue, because although I suddenly like it more than I ever have, I do think it's weird. I also have an intense desire to layer an incense perfume with it. (Don't tell Frédéric Malle. Or Jacques Guerlain.)
If I came across Jacques Guerlain, I think I'd feel obligated to tell him. First I'd ask his thoughts on what Wikipedia said about his perfumes, then I'd ask his opinion on the IFRA regulations, and then I'd tell him about you layering stuff. I wonder which would mystify him more?
Lots of people grouse about L'Heure Bleue online, that it's weird or old-fashioned or overly sweet. I never know what to believe but I generally find people who write about perfume to be unreliable. Present company excluded, of course. Except for me. I'm definitely unreliable.
L'Heure Bleue is too full and rich to be melancholy. Après l'Ondée is thinner, wanner. Ergo, more melancholy.
I'll be the judge of how melancholy L'Heure Bleue is! An unreliable judge, mind you, but unreliable votes count just the same in this country.
I'm wearing L'Heure Bleue and it's obviously not "less bright and more melancholic" than Après l'Ondée. (That'll teach me for getting perfume information from Wikipedia.)
In fact, it's a more bright, less melancholic Après l'Ondée. It's Apres L'Ondee with the sunroof open a crack. It's Après l'Ondée with curves. Which makes L'Heure Bleue a little less wearable for a man. Or at least for me. But it's interesting, especially that dissonance of which you spoke, though the initial carnation blast almost tore open my nostrils. (I know they at least flared a few times.) This is strong stuff. As time passes, the flowers do fade some and I get much more almond-y softness.
Here I am alone on a Tuesday night, wearing a ladies' perfume and smelling myself. If I were more diligent about studying my own behavior, I'd probably give myself a good talking to.
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