I first encountered Bertrand Duchaufour's newly-released Mon Numéro series at L'Artisan Parfumeur's Printemps boutique in Paris in September. My advance research had lead to me to anticipate Numéro 10 the most feverishly, built as it is around my ever-lovin' solids: incense and amber. But as I huffed and puffed my way across the collection, it was Numéro 8 that had my number.
Right out of the bottle, off the nozzle, on the strip, Numéro 8 smells personal, like it has already been living on a beautiful body for some while. It's a sophisticated floral musk that pushme-pullsyou between elegant, withholding iris and the round-heeled trio narcissus, cassie and mimosa: flowers with a mammalian pong and minds in the gutter.
There's a muffled, thick intimacy that lurks in those sheer layers of iris and wisp. The moiré created by iris plus carrot creates a woody/metallic/vegetal vibration that recalls the tang of skin on shower day plus one, maybe two. It edges towards powdery, but the fine white dust never actually lifts off into the air. Mon Numéro 8 strikes me as the posh, understated, less powdery version of Love, Chloé, which I'd categorized as a “porny ballerina” scent. My Number 8 may indeed be posher, but it's no less porny.
BONUS EXTRA REVIEW...
...courtesy of my fume buddy jtd. When I ran into him at Scent Bar last week, I happened to have my bottle of Mon Numéro 8 with me and sprayed a blotter for him to try. The clever-clogs ran home and promptly produced the following review. What a show-off.
Mon Numéro 8 starts with an iris root so carrot-seedy that the two notes actually seem distinct. They converge slowly and a throaty, rich, iris-dominated floral picture comes into focus. Just into the heart, whammo! An exceedingly strong, exceedingly gorgeous soapy note grabs the wheel. (I kind of wondered about Katie's "shower day plus one" comment at this point.) Soon, in a convincing juxtaposition, a musky, ripe body scent starts creeping through the soap and brings back the rootlike, almost mucky feel of the iris/carrot seed bit. While not similar in scent, Mon Numéro 8 captures that clean over dirty intimacy that is the heart of Amouage Gold Man. I've only smelled it on a strip, but where most perfumes are a statement, or perhaps a simple question, Mon Numéro 8 is more like an argument, an assertion, and I'm completely persuaded. I’m certain I’d have the urge to nuzzle up to anybody wearing this.
Mon Numéro 8 is available from ArtisanParfumeur.com
Looking for a fragrance recommendation? Visit Fume Finder: the Katie Puckrik Smells fragrance app.
Nude Behind Red Curtains by Frederick Carl Frieseke
Um, wow. In this case, wow times two people a'wowing. I don't think this one's for me, though - especially when you throw in the Amouage Gold Man comparison. I don't really cotton to scents that are too body-reminiscent.
ReplyDeleteAnd the closest I get to "porny" is Byredo's Accord Oud, at which point the po-po are dragging me out the brothel - kicking, screaming and hallucinating about rumpy pumpy big-hipped Lover Mamas.
Even though I love the "porny ballerina" description, I don't think that this should stop anybody from trying Numero 8. It's intimate and skin-hugging, but it's no civet-bomb. I find it to be one of the most elegant releases that I've experienced in the past few years.
ReplyDeletehey Katie..I just loved you had your bottle on you...:) as any good fumehead knows...be prepared for anything and smell....:)
ReplyDeletexo Michael and Mirabelle
I don't know how anybody could read descriptions such as these and not want to venture into the world of perfume. It's like being pulled into another world.
ReplyDeleteHmm. No. 8 sounds like it has parallels to Karl Lagerfeld's original Chloe.
ReplyDeleteMaybe Chloe is the porny ballerina's burlesque-trained mother.
DomPerrier - I'd hit that.
ReplyDeleteStefush, every time I'm faced with the Byredo line up, I ask myself, "Now which oud is it that Stefush loses his marbles over?" Because I go to smell both of them, and the get distracted by something else at the Barney counter and lose track of those Byredo ouds. Okay, so it's Accord Oud. Accord Oud. I shall really focus the next time I smell that and wait for the po-po to arrive.
ReplyDeletem61, you raise an incredibly essential point that must be stressed: no civet glands were squeezed in the creation of My Number 8. And you're right, "porny ballerina" is perhaps more fun to invoke than is actually indicative of the scent. But my idea of "ballerina" is sweet and feminine and innocent, and thus the porny version is merely a bit more sweaty and heavily petted. Intimate and skin-hugging is more to the point, "back-bottom" (as my friend Alan would ridiculously put it) is not.
ReplyDeleteonesmalldog, I'm enough of a nerd that when I have an exciting and exotic bottle of perfume, I'll bring it with me to Scent Bar or to Barneys because I know I'll run into friends and fume lovers who will thrill at the chance to try something new. It's like back in the day being the kid who had the latest edition of The Face or the newest Psychedelic Furs 12".
ReplyDeleteNora B, what a fabulous compliment!
ReplyDeleteDom Perrier, as a ex-wearer of the original Chloe (as a beyond-uncomprehensibly young lady), I can report that No. 8 does not have the suffocating (in a nice way, I used to think) intensity of Chloe, as well as those thick white florals. But it does suggest intimacy, so I grant you some parallels there.
The newest Psychedelic Furs 12" . . . oh Katie, you really are a woman after my own heart.
ReplyDeleteI think the most significant information to be gleaned from this entire thread is that the term "porny ballerina," is here to stay.
ReplyDeleteFor good.
Love my way, Nathan, love my way.
ReplyDeleteNora, a toast to "porny ballerina."
I love jtd's basenotes reviews-- he's so good at unthreading the perfume's development so I always feel like I learn something reading his reviews. And I love his sensibilities-- loves classical form but is also champion of the underdogs. I have a perfume nerd crush on him.
ReplyDeleteShoulda figured you two were pals!
Dante's Bra
Serendipitously, I caught up with Robin's use of the term "ravished ballerina" today, which Olfactoria quoted in her review of Vero Kern Rubj. This is encouraging, as it suggests that "porny ballerinas" do get lucky if they bide their time and put some thought into their scent choice. A perfume featuring "layers of iris and wisp" with an undercurrent of porn has my number too, and as you predicted "my sniffer stopped flitting" at this one!
ReplyDeleteDante's Bra - from reading jtd's Basenotes reviews, I have a perfume nerd crush on him too, so imagine my delight when I first met him at the book/fragrance pairing I did with Emma Forrest at Scent Bar: http://www.katiepuckriksmells.com/2011/06/your-voice-in-my-head-bookfragrance.html
ReplyDeleteAlong with Stefush, jtd's going to be submitting regular posts here on KP Smells, so lucky us!
Vanessa, between Mon Numéro 8 and Penhaligon's Amarinthine, you're working some subtly raunchy fumes, doll. "Subtly" being the operative word.
ReplyDeleteI bopped over to Now Smell this to check out the Rubj review you mentioned, which turns out to from Angela. As Rubj involves headier orange blossom and jasmine, that must be what leads to that ballerina getting ravished.
Mon Numero 8 has joined the ranks on my running, KP-fueled wishlist of scents.
ReplyDeleteI noticed that a website called LuckyScent has 3 oz. samples of various potions available (naturally Mon Numero 8 isn't one of them). Do you know anything about this site? Or could you recommend a site with a similar offer? I prefer to check out the "fit" before taking any $200 plunge.
tdlish, you'll see that LuckyScent is an advertiser on my blog - I know them well and heartily endorse them. LuckyScent is the website for Scent Bar, the best and most complete niche perfume store I've ever had the pleasure to visit. Mon Numero 8 is a limited edition, and the only place I've seen samples is from L'Artisan's store in London in Covent Garden. Perhaps if you contact L'Artisan Parfumeur directly?
ReplyDeleteLatecomer to the party, here. Katie, I love your take on No 8--completely captures the mood of it! Now I'm feeling the urge to find me some Love, Chloe. And thanks for the spectacular image, which I'm stealing, by the way. I'm growing my hair so I can pull it into a scalp-wrenchingly tight bun, I'll keep a post-reahearsal used unitard, and I've got my props (Marlboro Light, Diet Coke). Now all I need is a bottle of No 8 and I've got next year's Halloween costume . (Aged) Porny Ballerina!
ReplyDelete"jtd does porny ballerina" is such a disturbing image! Don't forget the worn tutu and dirty pink leg warmers scrunched down around your ankles.
ReplyDeletejtd--you must wear the fragrance with the costume. That is an order!
ReplyDeleteHi Katie,
ReplyDeleteI wanted to say a huge thank you for such a special evening on 19th.
You were so generous with your time saying hello to us all afterwards, and it was great to follow up on those incense comparisons. (SonomaSS here I come…) I’m also grateful for the introduction to Dzongkha, which is now firmly on my full bottle list.
I wonder if you remember how bizarrely Mon Numero 8 performed on my skin.
If MN8 is a ballerina, then she clearly can’t cook, judging by those funky blanched cabbage/yellow pepper/damp teatowel notes that came out to our horror!
I’m pleased to report back that, about an hour later, a pleasantly vegetal, powdery 28 La Pausa came through, and actually hovered on my skin right into the next morning, when the Santal 33 on my other arm would let it get a word in edgeways, that is. This ballerina has a complex personality, it seems!
Many thanks again, and keep up the fabulous work,
Roland
Roland, I just noticed that I never responded to your gracious comment - very sorry about that! I'm glad Mon Numero 8 shaped up her performance after her garbage-compost beginning on your skin!
DeleteI finally received my long awaited sample of Numero 8! I really appreciate you doing the Le labo iris39 review- but, I was left a little disappointed...I really think I'm the only one in the world gaga for it...didn't provoke many comments..Your beautiful purple swirly bread image seems to be more interesting/ comment worthy than the fragrance...whateves...I still greatly appreciate the review- - but, once again, this numero 8 came up- and FINALLY GOT MY SAMPLE!! At first sniff, I thought...hmmm..not getting it? I can't really smell that much ( though my sample did come in a roller ball tube, and those do tend to automatically edit the amount one applies- which is probably not a bad thing in my case).
ReplyDeleteBUT- then the magic that happened with Iris 39 happened a few minutes later with 8...Perhaps this is a common trait of Iris scents- that they really need some time to unfold and show their stuff? At any rate, what comes with the drydown- just a minute or so in, actually- is BEAUTIFUL!Your review sums it up perfectly- and the image,of snuggly woman in luxurious bedding is also perfect! Now I understand the reference to the Hamilton photos ( even though, that reference was actually with the Love, Chloe review). This scent is so snuggly yet sensual! I kinda feel like one of those pretty young things in the his photos, basking in my own beauty just wanting to hug myself! Wow- very glad you recommended this- could easily become a new favorite!As I was running wearing it this morning, I did start reminiscing of ballet classes- Could see the always dirty ballet pink wrap around sweaters going great with this- Cant tell you how much I love "porny ballerina"..She is my new inspiration! Also ordered the Love Chloe but haven't given that one enough solo time yet- It's been all about the 08 since receiving! Hope that I end up liking that one as well, since it seems to be much easier to acquire in the states.
LOVE this- thanks, Katie!
It just makes me so happy when I'm able to do a little perfume matchmaking, pinkcash! I met Mon Numéro 8's creator Bertrand Duchaufour a couple of weeks ago, and I had the chance to gush of my love for it to him (and for another of his creations, Comme des Garçons Avignon). He told me Mon Numéro 8 is an "homage to Après L'Ondée". I've never clicked into Après L'Ondée, so I can't recognize the kinship as yet. But yeah - agreed that My Number 8 fits the "porny ballerina" template. Love, Chloe is much more billowy/puffy. I sat in a cloud of it one day in the waiting room for jury duty. I was sent home. Do I have Love, Chloe to thank for that?
DeleteGuess who's all sexy/ snuggified in her porny ballerina tonight? loving it more with each passing day- and the hubby likes too! Extra points!!!Wonder your thoughts on serge Lutens bas de soie? I'm intrigued by this one, but not sure I would say that I love it- intrigued is best description...
ReplyDeleteI guess...YOU, pinkcash! How nice to hear it's sexy/snuggified love.
DeleteI've made a few passes at Bas de Soie, but haven't really gotten into yet. Haven't formulated a position.
I'm not sure if I have a defective nose but "Mon Numero 8" smells JUST like Frederic Malle's "Une Fleur De Cassie" to me. Surely it's an aromatic photocopy of Ropion's composititon? The opening notes seem identical although I am sure I've read that they're not.
ReplyDeleteWhat's wrong with me?!
I'm sure you and your nose are just dandy, Ash, but I'm sure you'd smell a difference if you smelled those two on a dance-off on your arms. I was just wearing Une Fleur de Cassie the other day, and while they share a certain soft intimacy, they are distinctively different.
DeleteOk, so it turns out I was actually sniffing L'Artisan's "Mimosa pour Moi" which basically smells like "Une Fleur de Cassie" LITE.
DeleteUnfortunately, the scent of "Mon Numero 8" escapes me.
Ah! Now that makes sense, since mimosa is a shared ingredient in those two perfumes.
DeleteI wonder how they both differ from Le Mimosa by Annick Goutal? Hmmm.
DeleteI basically want someone to tell me which of the three, is the most complex fragrance because mimosa can be quite the challenging ingredient.
Ash, I've not tried L'Artisan's Mimosa, but Annick Goutal is very pretty and girly/grassy/peachy/floral, whereas the Malle is much more XXX adult, more intimate smelling.
DeleteI know you once referred to Cassie as "unwashed flowers" but what I primarily get from it in the top notes is an animalic rubber scent and Mon Numero 8 also gives me some of that latex muskiness. You're right though, I do need to compare and contrast in the same sitting.
ReplyDeleteI would love to read your full blown take on Une Fleur de Cassie or indeed any of the other Malle fragrances that you haven't yet reviewed (particularly Lipstick Rose and La Parfum de Therese). It was your wonderful description of L'Heau Diver as the "perfume version of Eternal Sunshine of The Spotless Mind" which led me to investigate that scent!
All the Malle perfumes bear closer analysis. I have been circling Une Fleur de Cassie, trying to understand my feelings about it. Thanks for the requests.
DeleteYou have definitely coined a new fragrance description with "porny ballerina" - I love it!!! Mon Numero 8 is truly a beautiful fragrance - like expensive face powder on a Victorian lady who's well off enough to splurge on said face powder but not so well off that she washes with highly scented soaps. Unfortunately, I was strapped for cash when this came out and missed the boat in buying it as they only sent a few bottles of it to Montreal. Now that I can afford the splurge (or rather, now that I'm willing to eat Kraft Dinner for months to pay for this jewel), I can't get my desperate hands on it. Go figure. I did contact L'Artisan in Paris and then their distributors in the US. What I found out was that, apparently, Mon Numero 8 is targeted for the Hong Kong market. North Americans are targeted for Mon Numero 10, which is only available at Barney's. Total olfactory discrimination, non? Strangely enough, though, they do offer MN8 on the European website... they just won't ship it to North America (I tried!!!).
ReplyDeleteWhat other fragrances could you recommend that are very similar to MN8? I'm craving face powder / smells-like-makeup fragrances. I already have Drole de Rose, which is nice on skin but smells a wee bit too much like tea on clothing. Plus, it's not 'porny' enough. :)
Thanks so much - love your site, have it bookmarked!