I tried the new Tom Ford White Musk Collection, and found them all to be lovely, and minus the Private Blend’s usual bombast. White Suede is nice, with a birch tarry quality. Jasmine Musk is very jasmine-y (uh…duh!), very pretty. Musk Pure puts me in mind of Chanel No. 5, lots of aldehydes. Urban Musk is animalic, starting off as nutty vinyl, ending on halitosis.
Oh, and I really like the new Tom Ford Grey Vetiver. It's vetiver lightened up enough with citrus to pass muster with a vetiver lightweight like myself. Vetiver’s grassy, vegetal thickness does me in at full force. Even at medium force.
I sampled all of the Tom Ford musks at Saks, and the only one I liked was White Suede.
And I can't abide by Grey Vetiver. Appreciating it because it covers its vetiver with citrus is like a Midwesterner only eating those tacky sushi rolls because the fish flavor is covered up with mayonnaise. Whether it's sushi or vetiver, you're either with us or you're against us. Though I'm not included in the vetiver "us" because I'm still on the fence.
You're right about Grey Vetiver being a lighter vetiver, but it's also a less interesting vetiver. It's akin to not liking black licorice and buying the black licorice that tastes least like black licorice. Except it still tastes like black licorice. And nothing else. Just not as much like black licorice as other black licorices taste. I found it kind of boring. (But I took a sample home with me to wear, so watch my opinion change.)
White Suede started off as my fave TF musk, too (and I guessed you'd like it, with its smokiness), but it sort of fell apart into components on my skin. The Jasmine Musk ended up smelling best on me.
I suppose Grey Vetiver is a wuss-out vetiver, but it's the only way I can get vetiver down without a spit-take, practically.
Today I’m wearing my sample of Etat Libre d’Orange Fat Electrician, which makes me angry, not because it's bad but because it's another boring, one-dimensional vetiver.
The fellows on Basenotes fall over themselves for every single vetiver, and every single leather and tobacco, probably because they're the acceptable-for-men accords, but how many vetivers must I endure that smell just like every other vetiver? (That's a rhetorical question. The real answer is around a couple dozen. So far.)
This one is thin and pleasing, probably because it's thin (a non-thin vetiver is hardly ever pleasing), but it ends up smelling like a cheapie designer vetiver, like Paul Smith Story, which can be had for half the price.
Whenever vetiver is present, everything else seems to get compressed, smothered. Vetiver is a perfume blanket. I don't like perfume blankets. I need to fly, KP, you know this about me.
Fumeheads, vetiver seems to bring out the Goldilocks in Dan and me: it's either too much or not enough. Please nominate your "just right" vetivers. (That includes you, Dan!)