How Do You Judge the Quality of a Fragrance?


Christophe Laudamiel, perfumer behind Humiecki & Graef Skarb, S-Perfume S-ex, and Tom Ford Amber Absolute, as well as innovative concepts like ScentOpera and Thierry Mugler's coffret inspired by Patrick Suskind's Perfume, discusses how to assess the quality of a perfume. The clip comes from Big Think, a YouTube “knowledge forum” featuring "the ideas, lessons, stories and advice of leading experts from around the world." Laudamiel discusses one the rarest things in perfumery: the invention of new structures, and touches on what makes a fragrance smell cheap. I like that Laudamiel says that it's important for the consumer to be aware of the variable nuances within “interesting” and hack stuff alike so that they can make informed choices on the perfumes they buy. You'd never hear someone from the corporate side of a perfume house imploring customers to assess the actual quality of their luxury products before they purchase! If the perfume-buying public actively rejects shoddy creations as they become more educated, perhaps perfumers working for the big houses will get leeway to create challenging fragrances with better raw materials. A pie-in-the-sky wish, I know... Thanks to Nathan Branch for alerting me to this wonderful clip.

12 comments:

  1. AnonymousJuly 08, 2011 3:23 PM

    that was really interesting to watch..thanks for sharing Katie...plus he as cute as a cartoon perfume character can be...:) It is like Tin Tin teaches scent. My new favorite saturday morning cartoon.

    xo Michael and Mirabelle

    ps katie..it happened Mirabelle and I got a 3 book deal..YEAH..I know one will have to be Mirabelle smells around.

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  2. ElisaJuly 08, 2011 6:15 PM

    I am wearing Putain de Palaces today and have been thinking that the floral accord smells cheap, though the effect is clearly intentional (like ha ha, hooker perfume). I think the factors that read as cheap are sweetness and fakeness (it doesn't smell realistically like flowers, it just smells like a floral perfume). It's also rather loud at first. What makes PdP worth the time of day, of course, is the deliciously naughty musk underneath...

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  3. Katie PuckrikJuly 08, 2011 8:25 PM

    onesmalldog -- I thought "Tin Tin", too. Feverish congratulations on your book deal!! All featuring photos of your doggie on her adventures, I imagine?


    Elisa -- I'm entranced by PdP's sweaty closeness. I like your analysis of real flowers vs perfume flowers.

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  4. StefushJuly 08, 2011 9:18 PM

    Katie Tresses:

    I'd have more to remark on this video but the urge to flick at Christophe's tiny, tiny wee shrimpy 'do is too strong. Can't pull...my...eyes...away...from...the....little...mountaintop. Like the worlds' littlest dollop of soft serve.

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  5. Katie PuckrikJuly 08, 2011 9:38 PM

    Mmmm...soft serve. I'm sure Christophe would have something to say about your daywear pajamas, too.

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  6. VanessaJuly 09, 2011 2:10 AM

    This video is rather timely as I wore Ed Hardy Love Kills Slowly the other day - on skin! - on multiple sites! - and was trying to put my finger on why it smelt cheap. I guess "not fresh" (as in "chemically") was my main conclusion. It couldn't have worn off soon enough for my liking...!

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  7. Katie PuckrikJuly 09, 2011 6:22 AM

    "Love Kills Slowly", eh? Sounds like you were speeding up the process with your multiple site approach.

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  8. StefushJuly 09, 2011 11:57 AM

    Katie Pajamas:

    I'm sure he would - everyone seems to. I'm used to it. Just yesterday in fact I had them paired with this amazing Mr. Rogers "It's Good in the 'Hood" t-shirt.

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  9. AnonymousJuly 12, 2011 10:18 PM

    You all were thinking Tin Tin but I was thinking Kewpie Doll. The whole time. Good description though.

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  10. Jennifer WellsJuly 13, 2011 2:53 AM

    Yes, Kewpie-doll. Excellent.

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  11. AnonymousAugust 22, 2011 1:41 AM

    I guess I'm late to the party but I can never resist un accent francais. For some reason, I loved that he kept referring to "structure", it made me feel very safe.
    Just today, I was thinking that L'Eau Cartier smelled meh and watery when I smelled it in Sephora (sorry if you happen to love that one)...meanwhile I am wearing Daphne (neither meh nor watery), partially because of your recommendation. Thanks for smelling!
    Fleurine

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  12. Katie PuckrikAugust 22, 2011 2:21 AM

    Oh Fleurine, that's the beauty of a party on the Internet: it'll be here forever. It's a non-stop erotic cabaret. A bit like Daphne!

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