Perfume Pen Pals: Carthusia 1681, Parfumerie Generale Yuzu Ab Irato, Nobile 1942 Ponte Vecchio and Hermes Hermesessences (various)



Katie,

Here's another round of decants of things you probably won’t like. It’s like repeatedly cooking paella for someone with a shellfish allergy.

Carthusia 1681: As discussed in our previous correspondence, this citrus/cedar/incense is the belle of the ball. Except it’s a masculine, so I guess it’s the handsome young man of the ball. 1681 is the kind of thing I could imagine wearing right on through retirement. I enjoyed this so much the one time I wore it, I found myself wishing that all perfumes smelled like it. That’s how good it is: it made me completely irrational.

Parfumerie Generale Yuzu Ab Irato: See that green color? That’s the spearmint, KP! Now wipe that scowl off your face and give it a go. It’s more about the yuzu than it is the mint. And the yuzu is odd. Interesting odd, not Gary Busey odd.


Nobile 1942 Ponte Vecchio: This is very nice, similar to The Ten Party but without the clove. Hermès Paprika Brasil: Surprisingly strong and unsubtle for an Ellena. Hermès Vanille Galante: Whatever it is that makes this smell like bananas, I don’t like. I don’t hate it but I can’t ever imagine wanting to smell like it. Hermès Vetiver Tonka: This one is said to be more about the tonka bean than it is about the vetiver. Except I smell vetiver and, to me, vetiver always smells the same. Hermès Iris Ukiyoé: Springtime and peat moss. I was reading some reviews that mentioned the vegetal nature of this perfume and that’s it, during drydown it possesses a similar note as that face stuff my ex would wear at night, which was definitely vegetal. I’m buying a bottle of this one. Dan
Dan, I've plowed though the paella, and here are my impressions: Carthusia 1681: I can see why you think it's the beau of the ball, and I agree. Love those manly herbs and pepper-dusted sandalwood. Parfumerie Generale Yuzu Ab Irato: At first I thought "Limeade fresh!" and found it enjoyable. But then it turned into an eerie olfactory reenactment of a wooden trunk of old clothes, its mustiness not quite held in check with herbal moth repellent sachets. So, not enjoyable at all, for me or the moths. Nobile 1942 Ponte Vecchio: It started off smelling like Dubble Bubble bubblegum and vetiver, before the Dubble Bubble took five and PV relaxed into a dusty, dusky vetiver blend. It's got the powdery thing I love in Nasomatto China White. And it makes me realize that in the right setting, I love vetiver as much as the next gentleman. And now I want to spray on some China White. Hermès Paprika Brasil: Peppery wood with an animalic afterthought. Hermès Vanille Galante: This smells almost identical to Annick Goutal Le Mimosa, which I really like! It's got Le Mimosa's ylang-ylang vanilla vibe, its sweet-sour twang, the sandalwood drydown. People hankering after this should investigate Le Mimosa, which is even more action-packed with peach and anise. Hermès Vetiver Tonka: It just smells like vetiver, slightly softened and creamified by vanilla. It's hard for any ingredient to make a dent in vetiver's bulwark. Hermès Iris Ukiyoé: "Shampoo" is the word here, although your "face stuff my ex would wear at night" are some good words, too. Not picking up on any "vegetal nature," unless "Oil of Olay Regenerist Gel" is a vegetable. Katie

14 comments:

  1. And hopefully, in this case, you aren't encouraging us to eat our vegetables.

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  2. Olay of Olay Regenerist gel is clearly a fruit. I'm also in a goofy mood when I type out strange things. I just told a friend i like to eat chipmunks when I feel down. I blame the Royal Wedding for making me out of whack. See? I just did it again.

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  3. Okay, that's it - if Dan is hallucinating out in the desert about this Carthusia, I have to find some. The rest I can pass on. Except for maybe the Annick Goutal - for you see, the ylang ylang? It knows me, it calls for me, and I am but a humble man.

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  4. Nope, not allergic to shellfish, but this grouping is the sort that leaves me feeling puzzled, as if I'm just missing something. Sort of like when I scratch my head through some acclaimed novel and wonder if there was a prequel that I somehow missed. The Hermessences in particular do this to me, although I do profess a liking for Vanille Galante. But Iris Ukiyoé doesn't even register as a perfume to me. Shampoo, oddly scented lotion, tonic, health food drink!

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  5. Katie and Dan,

    I just love your review, specially on the Hermessences... I also get the banana vibe from Vanille Galante, which I actually like. I don't find it similar to AG Le Mimosa, the peaches in this last one bother me a lot (and I am usually a fan of AG peach notes). Iris Ukiyoe is amazing, I don't care if it smells like shampoo or face stuff, as long as it smells good!

    On a completely different note now... I "let the dogs out" (and the rest of Noah's Ark) and went for a FB of Muscs Koublai Khan today! OMG, that stuff is amazingly sexy and powerful. Can't stop smelling my left wrist (the right one has Sa Majeste La Rose, which I also love):)

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  6. Sabrina -- Muscs KK? You, the little violet vamp? Talk about expanding your horizons!


    melisand61 -- I agree about the puzzling grouping of perfumes. That's what happens when I get my "reading list" from Dan, who has very specific interests and tastes. Or non-specific, judging from this idiosyncratic decant set. I figure as long as I keep smelling what he keeps dishing out,
    I'll have a better command of what's out there in perfume land than if left to my own idiosyncratic tastes and impulses.

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  7. Stefush -- Don't want to send your spaniel self sniffing after non-existent ylang-ylang: I felt there was a "ylang twang" to Le Mimosa, but I don't believe y-y is part of the official line-up.

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  8. the violet vamp is getting dirrrrrrtyyyyyy!!!!!

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  9. I know, Sabrina - I can smell you from here!

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  10. Katie - speaking of ylang-ylang and such, can you or Dan recommend any frangipani/plumeria/nag champa-based or heavily-noted scents? (We may have covered this ground previously on this site, please forgive if so - it's late and I'm beyond research.) I think if my spaniel self were decanted, it would be nag champa. But you can't name a dog (or a person) that without coming off like a space shot at the dog park.

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  11. Stefush, I believe your one-stop-shopping for tropical nag champa perfume is Lolita Lempicka Fleur de Corail. See my review here:

    http://www.katiepuckriksmells.com/2009/08/lolita-lempicka-fleur-de-corail.html

    For my idea of the ultimate frangipani freak-out, try LesNez Manoumalia, review here:

    http://www.katiepuckriksmells.com/2009/08/lesnez-manoumalia.html

    Dig them at your leisure, and get back to me with your conclusions.

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  12. To me Vetiver Tonka doesn't smell "that much" like vetiver but then, I'm a vetiver slut, and you, Katie Puckrik, are clearly not. Or, are you? I was thrilled to witness your recently conversion to the mysteries of Saint Sycomore. It's the gold standard, holy of holies,...whatever.

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  13. I'm surprised by how many people do not care for vetiver. While I don't own any perfumes that have vetiver (yet, sorry but my wallet just isn't that understanding) I have smelled the essential oil and to me it just smells like lovely autumn leaves, damp, cool earth and night time in October. Yay, Halloween!

    Oh, and sorry, off-topic, but I've been reading past Dan correspondences and I just discovered Lana. Oh, Lana, you break my heart.

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  14. Suzy Q, I'm no vetiver slut...or maybe I am: I'll wear it if you pay me!! Joshing aside, I love what vetiver does in a composition, but do prefer it kicked back in force. But you're right, my eyes are newly opened to Sycomore's wonders.


    Nora -- Yay for the Halloweeniness of vetiver! I think what people object to in vetiver is its domineering character in many perfumes. But if you don't mind being reminded who's boss by some weed, then you'll be fine.

    And re Lana, I KNOW. She's a Lifetime movie.

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