Perfume Pen Pals: Guerlain Jicky


Dan,

Okay, let’s have a Jicky discussion. How does Luca Turin write over a page on Jicky in Perfumes: The Guide and gloss over the fact that it smells like a full baby diaper? Turin’s all blah blah "smoky phenols" this, blah blah "lemon cheesecake" that, and no blah blah "colostomy bag". Talk about polishing a turd!

But Jicky is fun to sniff. Reminds me of the diaper pail smelling game I gleefully devised for my childhood chums and myself. Just lots of running around the basement, pausing to lift the lid of their little brother's diaper pail, retch, scream, and recommence running. Good training for Jicky.

Katie


Katie,

Jicky! Yes, dirty diapers! That just elevated this whole correspondence. I know it smells "poopy" but you're spot-on, it smells diaper "poopy," which is a very specific kind of "poopy." I hear the EDT smells much fresher and less "little Katie and the diaper-pail game," but I've only worn the EDP. And the DP might as well stand for "diaper pail."

And I don't know why Turin doesn't mention this. He is particularly protective of most Guerlains, but he also seems to overplay other scents' dirtiness as a way of praising them.

Dan


Fumeheads, can you enlighten me on the "special charms" on Jicky's varying concentrations?

53 comments:

  1. I was sniffing the Guerlain's at Neiman's last fall, and put a dab of Jicky on, certain I would love it. I am happy to say that I am not especially familiar with eau de poopy diaper, but having grown up in farm country I can distinguish between various manures (or, as a friend likes to Frenchify it by pronouncing it "mon-you-ray"). I applied the much vaunted Jicky, let it dry down a bit while having a grand time with the Guerlain SA, sniffed. Resniffed. Pure, unadulterated barnyard--and not in a good way. Merely held my wrist out to the tall, beautiful Russian SA to sniff, as I was in a sort of shock. She sniffed, and immediately grabbed an outrageously overpriced Guerlain cleanser and began scrubbing the offending spot. I just can't believe others get some wonderful scent out of this. I do love me some skank, but draw the line at smelling like manure.

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  2. I'd be pleased as punch to get diaper pail from Jicky. Every time I see it on a counter, I pick it up. I think "Oh, Jicky EDT. This is the predecessor of the lovely Shalimar!." I spray it on, enjoy the lovely lavender opening, then BAM . . . mothballs.

    Man, I hate mothballs.

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  3. I definitely agree with the shitty Jicky review (no pun intended - pa rum pum) and I, too, have Turin/Sanchez's book and am baffled by some of the reviews. The other one page honker is Sanchez's review of Estee Lauder's Beyond Paradise. After reading the review, I ran to Macy's to get a whiff and almost puked. Probably one of the worst florals I've ever inhaled. It's definitely well beyond paradise - it's beyond any understanding. I'm interested in knowing if you've smelled it and what you think. I'm no expert, but I do know enough to know when something smells like plain poop or floraly poop.

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  4. I love me my Jicky! In EDP, though. Parfum was too realistically manure-like for me. I was totally self-conscious about it the whole time I had it on (and I put on this teensy dab right before yoga class, what was I thinking?!). EDT was actually second-most-civet-y to me because it had less ambery bits to balance it out. EDP is perfectly balanced IMO. If I could have only one perfume to last me to my grave, this is what I would choose. How do vintage versions compare, anyone know? Most curious about vintage extrait.

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  5. The only time I smelled Jicky (as an extreme neophyte perfumista), all I got out of it was lavender and vanilla. Now I'm ready to race out and find some to see if I can get the poopy-diaper angle! To allofthisandbrainstoo, I'm also bewildered by some of the 'fumes that Turin & Sanchez give full-page, glowing reviews to. I mean, Beyond Paradise? I thought that one was an embarassment to Lauder's generally high-quality line of fragrances.

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  6. ahsu, the only Jicky I've smelled was the pure parfum, and I did find it fascinating after about an hour, but before then, it was a shimmering cavalcade of halitosis, full diaper, creamy vanilla & lavender. Once the bodily emissions part of the program recede to "animals frisking in the background", I get it. But now I'm eager to try the EDP.

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  7. opusgirl - mothballs, huh? Is it the lavender revealing its evil side? But you do smell the lavender as distinctly lavenderesque, so who knows?

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  8. allofthis - Me three with the TS "Beyond Paradise" review being a head-scratcher. And I really tried to "get it", because I so respect LT/TS's broad perspective (who knows when I'll get around to smelling as many things as they have?) and enjoy their witty observations. Generally, if a perfume is well-composed and a fine example of its genre, I'll understand why it's "good", even if it's not to my personal taste. But my nose remains uncharmed by Beyond Paradise. I'll keep trying!

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  9. vicuna1 - I love "mon-you-ray"! And how fascinating that you have the skills to tell which animal produced the "pat". (Why do only cows get to have "cowpats"? Dogpats, catpats, peoplepats - makes feces sound cute!

    Even the hardcore NM SA couldn't work up the rhetoric to sell you on Jicky. But I do believe that with Jicky, one needs to cowboy up and ride out the "challenging" opening. There could be gold in them thar hills.

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  10. OK, I don't want to be blasted, but I have worn Beyond Paradise. I didn't get any poop smell, or even florally poop smell out of it. It has been years since I have worn it. Maybe an older version was less stinky? Well, I am broadening my horizons now and am constantly enlightened by the novellas that perfumistas on these pages smell in the various scents. I am emboldened by Dan with his collection of hundreds of scents to maybe venture out and sample more, perhaps to buy. Dan, have you ever tried Trussardi, and if so, what did you think?

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  11. Pino, just to clarify, the Beyond Paradise discussion was a sidebar to the Jicky/mon-you-ray analysis. Beyond Paradise is emphatically a non-diaper frag! In fact, you can enlighten me as to what BP is all about. Perfume critic Tania Sanchez calls it "a gorgeously fresh, fictional, ideal tropical flower", but my only memory is that it smells like a synthetic fictional something, and I can't really figure it out. But as I've never actually tried it on my skin, I don't know what's what with BP. What's your take on it?

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  12. My little vial of Jicky is from the 90's (it reads parfum de toilette - EDP, I think). I didn't get the poo note until you mentioned it. It's not terribly strong, so I suppose it's a good poopy.

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  13. htroutma - well, I do enjoy a touch of exaggeration for entertainment's sake, so "poopy" was perhaps an over-egging of "personal human body smell". But yes, let's say "good poopy"! And I've never really grasped this "parfum de toilette" terminology - you're thinking that means EDP?

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  14. Katie, first time writer, long time reader here. Thank you thank you thank you--I really thought I was the only one who didn't "get" Jicky. Poopy? Yes. Mothballs? Check. But also, an intriguing dirty gym socks note.

    Why do people rave about this??

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    1. So happy to see I am not the only one who does not get this one. I bought a sample that is not labeled edp or edt - it is surely not the perfume. All I can smell is lavender. It smells almost single note on me. Clean but boring. Not smelling any poop but would never purchase this one. I love Shalimar and definitely see how this led up to that one. Much prefer Chamade to Jicky but the edp completely fades on me. Suggestions from anyone regarding Chamade? Vintage or not? Perfume or not?

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  15. Glad you piped up, Angi! Sounds like we all need to go on a Jicky wilderness retreat, complete with a sweat lodge and a perfume shaman, who inducts us into the hidden mysteries of incomprehensible-to-mortals Jicky. Because obviously there's magic in there, else it wouldn't still be with us after more than century. And even if I never can wear it, I always want it to exist - like a time capsule of smell.

    I'm going to work on my relationship with Jicky and see if we have any breakthroughs.

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  16. I like Jicky better than Shalimar, but sadly cannot wear it- though I am so happy it exists. There is something in the base (especially in the vintage) that makes my stomach turn. But it's not poopy to me at all.

    The last time I tried wearing it I accidentally spilled some on my hand when i sprayed it on me, and wiped it on my belly before putting on a t-shirt and cardigan. Went to a movie (that documentary about the french tightrope guy, in fact)...the theater was really warm...and felt like i was marinating in some terrible mix of rosemary vinaigrette and melted vanilla ice cream. You know that face bugs bunny makes where he turns green, his cheeks puff out and he puts one finger to his lips, as if to hold them close...and he swoons and falls down. That was how I felt. Awful. I get the same with Shalimar, too (vintage or modern edp & extrait).

    I absolutely love those quadrilobe Jicky bottles! One of the top 10 perfume bottles of all time.

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  17. I am curious about the Jicky/Shalimar connection. My brother is a die-hard Shalimar fan. He bought it for his first wife and, later, his second wife. I wouldn't think he wears it himself. So does Shalimar also share the "good poopy" smell? And does my sister-in-law smell like poop? Eek alors! But all funnin' aside, what are the notes that are similar in these two fragrances?

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  18. Oh thank god someone had the guts to tell the truth about Jicky. I have tried, lord have mercy! I have tried to love the Jicky. It's just a scrubber for me. I start with good intentions of finally getting it this time, really giving it a shot, hoping my nose has "matured" since my neophyte days, but no. Scrubber. I can't get past 10 minutes. I feel similarly about Shalimar. Although with Shalimar I am holding out hope that I will some day get it. And I can't smell the peach in Mitsouko, just a yeasty/bready note. Katie, am I doomed?

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  19. Scott, if your definition of "doomed" includes not smelling like the Queen of Sheba as you go about your day, then yes, you're doomed.

    I'm going to think about yeasty/bready the next time I smell Mitsouko, cuz I don't think I've encountered that.

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  20. dea - "quadrilobe", even! Your "barfing Bugs Bunny" description was most evocative - I felt like I was watching the cartoon.

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  21. Pino, the link between Jicky and Shalimar isn't the cow pat (human pat?) accord, it's the "melted vanilla ice cream", as dea called it. Jicky is a civet-y lavender vanilla, and Shalimar is a leathery amber vanilla. And it's a very particular vanilla - it reminds me of Cremora or Coffee-Mate, or powdered evaporated milk. It's very dense, syrupy and a bit burnt.

    I'm wondering the Jicky/Shalimar vanilla was considered more "yummy" in the context of the early 20th century. Perhaps there was more of a relationship to commonly-eaten foods of the time? Because now this vanilla seems cloying and strange. And I hasten to add: "not that there's anything wrong with that"!

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  22. Katie, I can now put to rest any interest in Jicky or Shalimar thanks to your clarification of the melted vanilla/Cremora/burnt evaporated milk notes. And I knew the BP mention was a sidebar but took a chance of throwing it in there. All this makes me realize how so many of my smell memories come from family. I want to broaden my smell horizons somehow. Jicky sounds icky and I am wondering if the name comes from the French - Je Icky - I am icky. Who would want to smell icky? So I am being funny here and wish the best to those who love to wear Jicky. With my abstinence they can all say "More for me!"

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  23. I'm throwing a Shalimar P.S. in here, because I may be coming around to it after very much enjoying wearing the EDP the other day. Was reveling in the burnt/smoky aspect of the vanilla, and appreciated it even more after I tried the pure parfum, which was too spicy/vanilla/gourmand for my taste. (My taste that HOUR, which is how often it seems to change these days....)

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  24. I have found the Jicky spot Katie!!
    OK - I have been wearing and buying this for over 35 years and my friends it has changed. The new parfum is not worth the money. It used to be a full on deep lavender civet rich lush velvet smell - not anymore. As I have said - the EDP is still good value and if you are not like me and keep scent really well - go the EDT. The parfum has changed - it used to be sooooo strong and mellowed out to a delish warm yet cooling scent. I wear Jicky alot in our summer heat here in Australia.
    Now the Poo---- I have NEVER got that accord and I grow over 60 roses in my garden and have dished out alot of manure in my life! LOL I have a little grandson and I have smelt his nappies and sadly they are nothing like a hit of Jicky either!!! LOL I think Mr Turin must have been on some sort of medication when he was composing the Jicky section of his book (which I do love)
    I am a Jicky lover and my daughter is a Shalimar girl. Shalimar has changed over the years too. I do not wear it well but I did have the parfum about 20 years ago and the parfum you buy now is not the one I could wear back then. It was strong on the vanillia but not in that sicky way. My daughter bought the parfum last year and it was a sad story and not strong or lasting at all. Its so sad that Guerlain is changing its "old ladies " .

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  25. lady jicky, I should clarify that I'm the one who's getting baby poo from Jicky - L Turin didn't breathe a word of it in his review. So perhaps I'm the one who needs to examine my medication!

    I'm so interested to read your insights! And it's good to know that you can still rely on the EDP, at least.

    Through course of reading and writing the comments to this post, I've revisited Shalimar, and the lady is REALLY growing on me. I'm thinking the EDP is the one for me. What's your (and your daughter's) take on the EDP & EDT?

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  26. Shalimar - I loved the old parfum. My daughter bought the parfum last year and ... its a very sad shadow of what it used to be. Do not buy.
    Ana does love it in the EDT!! It was stronger on her than the parfum !!! I do not think she has ever bought the EDP - we do not get great ranges of Anything here in Australia (small population , distance thing - plus the lemming thing with people buying whats in the mags! Rrrr)It is lovely on Ana but I would rather put my $$ on Mitsouko or Jicky etc.
    I must get down my Turin book and read the thing! LOL
    So you are the "poo person"!!!! I tell ya- I don't get it!!! Thank God! LOL

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  27. Just bought a 3.1 oz gold refillable cannister of Jicky EDT.

    Dang, why didn't I read this review before I went ahead & purchased it?

    It has a pale green hue as well.

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  28. DomPerrier, I love those Guerlain cannister - I have one with Mitsouko EDT. Let me know how Jicky works out for you - it's a marvelous warm lavender, with that...human...element.

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  29. Katie,

    My 93ml of Jicky in the Habit de Fete cannister arrived yesterday!

    Despite all the talk of diaper pails, it was LOVE at first sniff!

    This is tempered by the fact that mine was only EDT, so the parfum / EDP might not be so merciful!

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  30. Well I found that the Extract to be more of a blast of Civet then EDT, its not that much more. I plan on buying the Extract this weekend. Jicky being as old as it is, still is a great perfume.

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  31. Thanks for the input!

    Parfum is hard to find, let alone the extrait!

    I hope one day....one day....to experience the barfy, diapery & lavendery notes, amped up to ten!

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  32. Katie,

    I finally have it. I find it really awesome. But it don't compare to the REAL EXCLUSIVE I got to try today at the Guerlain store. Wild Amber and it really is one of a kind! Plus it cost $20,000.

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  33. DomP & Gojira, you certainly are out-and-out thrillseekers. When it comes to perfume, no stimulus is too much, even when it's too much. And I applaud that.

    Gojira, I'm intrigued by this fancy fume you've been trying. "Wild Amber" is a funny name - just imagine all that untamed, savage amber galloping around through the mountains.

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  34. Katie,

    I am on day 8 with Jicky, why can't I stop wearing it. Have you ever had a perfume you bought and can't keep from wearing it? I am in heaven. And yes I am thrillseeker. Goes with the job! Wild Amber was impressive. I still can't get it out of my head. I am still trying to come up with words to do it justice. It was that good! It just had this huge vibe of every friggin Guerlain ever made and put in a bottle. It was true a masterpiece!

    Cheers!

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  35. Gojira, sounds like you're deep in the middle of your kicky Jicky love affair.

    I'm going through the same thing right now with my new bottle of Diptyque L'eau Trois. Lotsa frankincense/myrrh satisfaction daily.

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  36. Your the second person today that has mentioned L'eau Trois. I guess I can take a hint. Yes, I ended it today the love affair. I got the extract, so I have too or it be gone in weeks. Right now all I can thing about is getting my hands on Shalimar Ode de la Vanille. I have been neglectful of Absolue Pour le Soir since I got Jicky. But now that I have started to wear again, This one might last longer.

    Cheers!

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  37. I encountered Ode de Vanille at Harrods the other week, and as the saleslady triumphantly announced it was "Shalimar with the heaviness taken out", my heart sank. Sure enough: no leather, no incense, no oomph. Just lemon and vanilla sugar.

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  38. Katie,

    Why do I feel like the kid that got his candy stolen at Halloween? Now I will go home to me mum and cry!

    Cheers!

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  39. Katie,

    I finally got my Shalimar Ode de Vanille. If you compare it with Shalimar of today, i think its not that bad. Against Vintage Shalimar then your are right. But I don't get Incense with today's version of Shalimar. Or its just too light for my nose. But the vanilla in this is not bad. But that is the problem with it. If they called it something besides Shalimar we might be really enjoying it. I am not overjoyed by it, but I am not completely disappointed with it. Still like it enough to keep wearing it.
    I got a sample of the new Dandy by Guerlain. I have to say I really like this one. Can't wait to put in on fully tomorrow.

    Cheers!

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  40. Eh, for me it's "no to Ode" on this new version of Shalimar, Gojira.

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  41. Katie, if your like the noughties Shalimar EDP so much, you should try out the vintage 70s-80s juice...that is extrait...

    It's almost perfume nirvana.

    Talking about Orientals, I got some 80s Samsara(EDP) today in the mail...MORE Guerlain love: opulent, and loaded with sandalwood!

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    1. I loved Shalimar in 1978. Tried it about ten years ago and hated it. Thought my body chemistry changed, now I see where the formulas change. There is no constant! Will be wiping off the Jicky sample (yuck) and try the post 2010 Shalimar and see how it goes.

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  42. DP, I am VERY curious about 80s Samsara and the real sandalwood in it. Mmmm...and that Shalimar 70s extrait must be wunderbar!

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  43. Actually I have some to spare since I snagged a 2.5 oz bottle(with slightly over 2 oz remaining) for the equivalent of $106(it's crazy I know...almost like striking the lottery).

    I wouldn't mind sending you some just to see your face on a video when you smell it a la your Secretions Magnifique one.

    But how do I decant perfume from such a large heavy dab-on bottle without spilling a drop? I'm so new to this.

    I can also send you some of the '80s Samsara in the same package.

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  44. DP - that is so kind of you to offer! Here is a very helpful "How to decant perfume" video from YouTuber triciaaz:
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t96_J0QCkgs

    Tricia demos how to use pipettes to decant from bottles without atomizers.

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  45. Eeks...Trowled many pharmacies & shops in my little town, but no luck finding any decanting equipment...

    Am debating whether to order it off the 'Bay.

    Should be able to get hold of sumthing by early Dec as I need to send some vials to someone in England who was so nice to send me 5 Amouage samples.

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  46. DP, your best bet for decanting supplies is online. My perfume pen pal Dan gets all of his atomizers, pipettes, etc, from Accessories for Fragrance:
    http://accessoriesforfragrances.com/
    Rei Rien also offers decanting supplies, as well as The Perfumed Court.

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  47. I managed to find a shop nestled under a bridge selling this stuff!

    And btw, I received about 7ml of vintage Jicky extrait abt 2 days ago.

    It's immediately skanky lavender that evolved quite a lot,and my mum asked me to change my shirt(which was newly put on), I guess partly because of the whiff of old Jicky I was giving off.

    Just a treat for the olfactory senses!

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  48. DomPerrier,

    What a mysterious find under that bridge!

    Your mum's response made me laugh - guess the "olfactory treat" Jicky provides is not universal.

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  49. Holy Shite. I thought there was no way it could have a dirty diaper smell and then I sprayed it, sniffed it and was O M G. There it is! And it's not like adult a** and it's not like animal a** and you absolutely nailed it Dan. Hmmm. I wonder if this fades? I wonder if I like it? Actually it is getting kind of nice. But thanks for the heads up. I wonder if I would have noticed it without reading this first?

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  50. Darin, it does get kind of nice once you know what you're in for. After revisiting it enough times, you forget how much it freaked you out to begin with.

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